Question about Ghettoblaster/EGR heat????
My head is a 95 so I had to drill the hole myself since the harness/pcm/car is a 98. I've had the EGR code come up before just from the one prong being broken, and another for the hose being clogged or something so I'm not sure how you [sabin] don't have a problem..Do you still have the vac lines connected to the EGR/solenoid or something?
And ok, do you know what type of Resistor I need exactly, theres a radioshack 30 sec's from my house so I can go get it when you let me know.
And ok, do you know what type of Resistor I need exactly, theres a radioshack 30 sec's from my house so I can go get it when you let me know.
Last edited by sabin420; Apr 6, 2009 at 09:30 PM.
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Well now that I swapped manifolds so many times I stripped 3 bolts so far. Now my stock one idles too high, so I'm think its cause I didn't have it bolted down tight enough and was missing the [flat gasket] for the runners, cause that seems to help a bit. I guess I need to fine some bigger bolts for the head or end up getting another one and getting that one resurfaced instead of mine since it would be easier to swap but 50 bucks more.
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From: roswell New Mexico
http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv
how to
http://www.how-to-guides.net/how-to-...ing-insert/31/
Last edited by 12 volt; Apr 10, 2009 at 11:57 AM.
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I agree, do the helicoil over bigger bolts, the intake leak makes idling difficult since the engine sucks in too much air to control
(going back to orginal point..)
I blocked my egr by pipe tapping the manifold (which is aluminum) and the valve, and using a pipe plug, it worked, but led to an annoying cel. Then I read in the hayes manual that the pcm will test the egr circuit by opening the egr and testing a/f for changes. So I unblocked it. I also read that the egr only works when the engine is warm and in part throttle, at full throttle it closes says the hayes manual.
(going back to orginal point..)
I blocked my egr by pipe tapping the manifold (which is aluminum) and the valve, and using a pipe plug, it worked, but led to an annoying cel. Then I read in the hayes manual that the pcm will test the egr circuit by opening the egr and testing a/f for changes. So I unblocked it. I also read that the egr only works when the engine is warm and in part throttle, at full throttle it closes says the hayes manual.
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you could helicoil em, check your parts store
http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv
how to
http://www.how-to-guides.net/how-to-...ing-insert/31/
http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv
how to
http://www.how-to-guides.net/how-to-...ing-insert/31/
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From:
I agree, do the helicoil over bigger bolts, the intake leak makes idling difficult since the engine sucks in too much air to control
(going back to orginal point..)
I blocked my egr by pipe tapping the manifold (which is aluminum) and the valve, and using a pipe plug, it worked, but led to an annoying cel. Then I read in the hayes manual that the pcm will test the egr circuit by opening the egr and testing a/f for changes. So I unblocked it. I also read that the egr only works when the engine is warm and in part throttle, at full throttle it closes says the hayes manual.
(going back to orginal point..)
I blocked my egr by pipe tapping the manifold (which is aluminum) and the valve, and using a pipe plug, it worked, but led to an annoying cel. Then I read in the hayes manual that the pcm will test the egr circuit by opening the egr and testing a/f for changes. So I unblocked it. I also read that the egr only works when the engine is warm and in part throttle, at full throttle it closes says the hayes manual.
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From: Menomonie, WI
So what the deal with these Ghettoblaster intakes manifolds... I've seen a lil bit on these and seen pictures but I tried searching for more info on them on here but didn't have much luck... do they really help that much that its worth doing? I know it will help a lot when boosted and probably with a very highly modded engine but what about with just basic bolt ons is it worth it?