3 questions:

1. Can the valves be held(tape,pliers,w/e) through the intake/exhaust runners. I may be able to use compressed air, but ofcourse that can fail if the valve is damaged.

2. Can the valve come up through the head, it seems from the manual it says to pull it up into place to re-seat it.

3. If my cylinder compressions is good(all 4 between 150-155) and I cranked the engine slowly with pressure built up, would a bent valve allow the pressure to go down noticeably on the guage?

 

The valve seal can be replaced with the head is on the car, if you can manage to compress the valve spring for the removal and installation. You will most likelt have to remove the head though. If the valve is bent, it will not seal to the head properly.

You cannot remove th valves until you remove the head from the block.

 

I was told to use thicker oil and a thickening agent. Will too thick of an oil bw bad for the engine(summer time)? Also, How long does it take for oil to pump into the head and hit the cams and such, if I start it (from overnight) and rev it(full oil) right away it seems to smoke, and the crankshaft is the first to receive oil so I'd suspect it to be blow-by and not the seals?

I was also thinking it would be easy to take off the manifolds and hold the valves from the runners and I'm sure I can put tape around the valve to insure it didn't fall in, problem with compressed air is, if the seal is bad the valve can fall in. I'm almost considering starting to save for new rings, a hone, etc and then do the seals with that but ofcourse I want to be 110% sure its not the seals.

 

Sounds like you neon could use some reconditioning. Replacing vavles seal is the easiest part of all the work you listed.

 

1. yeah, you could use tape or something soft.... try not to do metal to metal contact

2.the valves will only come out thru the bottom of the head into the combustion chamber.

3.Pressure will not build due to the exhaust stroke

Only way too find the leak is by a differental compression test AKA leak down test. The hardest part is removing the valve springs, youll need special tool MD998772A.

http://www.costplustools.com/Miller-...NG_p_7412.html

 

holy expensive part!! I can get one for less then 20 that is the same kind as in the haynes, so I guess Wed I'll order it and take care of this.

Nows the important part:
Hone - 50
Rings - 38

1.I've had my head resurfaced like 2 months ago, do I NEED it done again??(if I keep this head)

2.The only thing I think I messed up was not doing the plastiguage on the crankshaft, so where would I get one and what are other important checks for the block cause I seem to have a knock. Happens more when oils low - seems normal in this situation - but the bearings are new, so what would cause the knock?? Could slightly off timing affect knock?

I know 95 bearings are different, but are the rings the same? And does honing cause the need for oversized rings?

 

1. no, as long as its still the same when you had it resurfaced

2. you can get plastiguage from your parts store

Many things can cause knocking sounds

rings are the same,.....honing should not make the cylinders larger so larger rings are not needed

 

Alright good to know I can save on the resurfacing.

 

Random related question:

If I turn the car on(in the morning, first time) and take off right away I get a lot of smoke even at low RPM. This would have to be blow by because all the oil is in the pan and crankshaft and not yet the valvetrain?

 

sounds like your burning oil.


oil pressure sould take about 2 seconds when you start the car