I have to change the clutch on a neon. Anyone know of a website on best way to remove the tranny?

and also does anyone know how much of a hassle it is?

thanks.

 

How is this? :

Removing your MTX
1. Remove battery, battery tray and radiator fans (13mm and 10mm socket/wrench)
2. Remove shifter cable bracket from transmission (13mm socket + extension)
3. Remove bobble strut bracket from transmission (13mm socket + extension)
4. Remove rear support bar from the block and transmission (15mm socket)
5. Remove speed sensor wiring from harness and reverse plug connector

From here there are variations, but this approach seems the most straight forward. You will need to get a wheel alignment after this is complete.

6.Loose all front lug nuts two turns. Do not remove completely! (19mm deep socket)
7.*Jack up the front of the car and secure on two A-frames. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO THIS SWAP WITH THE CAR ON A JACK ALONE!!!
8. Remove front wheels.
9. Remove axle retaining clips (pliers/vice grips)
10. Remove axle nut (32mm axle socket) *NOTE* wedge a screw driver in the brake rotor to keep assembly from turning.
11. Remove brake caliper and rotor (10mm socket/wrench)
12. Remove balljoint nut and bolt (18mm and 15mm wrenches/sockets)
13. Remove tie rod from spindle (18mm wrench/socket) *NOTE* Use tie rod seperator, BFH, or something blunt if it needs encouragemnt to come loose
14. Remove strut from spindle (21mm socket/wrench/vice grips)
15. Use balljoint seperator to remove spindle from control arm.
16. Use pry bar to remove axles.
17. Secure a jack under the engine block to keep supported
18. Remove all bolts seven connecting trans to the block (18mm socket)
19. Remove inspection cover (10mm wrench - rachet may get stuck between trans and oil pan)
20. Remove front engine mount and bracket (15mm and 18mm socket)
21. Remove starter bolts and starter (13mm socket, 15mm socket + extension)
22. Secure a jack under trans
23. Remove transmission mount bolt (18mm DEEP socket + extension) *could loose short socket in frame!
24. Trans should come loose at this point. Use second jack (preferably floor jock) to support trans during removal. The trans weighs roughly 80lbs, so take caution not to let it fall. Could crack the case under its own weight.

Installing your MTX
*25. Now you will begin to put your replacement transmission back in. Use the floor jack, or a second person to raise the trans into place. Keep all connectors secured from area. The input shaft in the mtx much go carefully back into the clutch assembly. Avoid the pressure plate teeth, as not to damage the clutch. Do not rush this procedure.

26. When the trans is flush with the block, secure the two upper most transmission bolts only. Thread the bolts in five to ten turns, enough that the jack can be removed. Do not thread all the bolt at this time. The transmission has to align with the block, and the front engine mount bracket. Check all bolt holes to see if you need to raise/lower the engine, by attempting to thread in each bolt five to ten turns. It is a good idea to use blue loctite on the end of the bolts to keep secure.
27. With all trans bolts in place, re-install your transmission mount bolt. Just five to ten turns.
28. Now secure the front engine mount bracket. Things may not line up completely yet, so tighten all bolts to bring everything together. Some encouragement may be require.
29. With the trans secure, follow the reverse instructions to put back togther. See your hayne manual for proper torque specs. Mine is MIA.
30. Be sure to get that alignment when complete, and fill new trans with 2.5qts mtx fluid. Partial to Amsoil Synbchromesh myself.

 

Nice write up!

 

Thank God my memory is good when I drink! Just update step #23. Glad it helps anyone that needs it.