99 DOHC Starting Poorly
Hello All,
Cold weather has definitely hit new england and I have had recent trouble getting my car to start. For example, the other day I went to start it and the car would try to turn over but would not do so. I gave the car some gas the second time and it would turn over but stall immediately. Once I got it running I had to keep the engine at 1500 RPMs to prevent stalling. Letting it idle made it stall and I would have to repeat the process. Once the engine warmed up a bit I was able to keep it at idle without issues. I have a scan tool plugged in and got P0117 and P0118 or a code 22 via CEL. I have seen this code the time before this but it went away after driving into town. However it did not go away this time and have no issues with the car other than this. Should I just replace the sensor? Is it typical to see this crack over time? What will I see for problems if it is not replaced immediately?
I know my way around cars and can replace this easily I just haven't been driving my car alot lately due to unemployment. Thanks for any replies!
Cold weather has definitely hit new england and I have had recent trouble getting my car to start. For example, the other day I went to start it and the car would try to turn over but would not do so. I gave the car some gas the second time and it would turn over but stall immediately. Once I got it running I had to keep the engine at 1500 RPMs to prevent stalling. Letting it idle made it stall and I would have to repeat the process. Once the engine warmed up a bit I was able to keep it at idle without issues. I have a scan tool plugged in and got P0117 and P0118 or a code 22 via CEL. I have seen this code the time before this but it went away after driving into town. However it did not go away this time and have no issues with the car other than this. Should I just replace the sensor? Is it typical to see this crack over time? What will I see for problems if it is not replaced immediately?
I know my way around cars and can replace this easily I just haven't been driving my car alot lately due to unemployment. Thanks for any replies!
Either the sensor or the wiring going to the sensor. I did drive a Neon for a long time with a bad ect. All you have to do is crank it and it usually dies immediately, then crank it a second time for up to 15 seconds and it will sputter to life. Terrible gas mileage though.
Replace the coolant temp sensor, make sure the connector is secure. If the retaining clip on the connector breaks, it could come loose. Helped a local with this code. Solved by swapping the engine harness.
Well I solved the problem and I will type out completely what I did so other fellow forums users can see how I fixed it.
It was the sensor and although I did not see any visible problems with the sensor I replaced it anyways.
I had to use a 20mm long socket to reach it, would have been easier with a extension but I managed without one. While I was there I check for corrosion on the wires and connector. The connector itself is plastic so no issues there other than making sure you don't snap the clip. My wiring and connector seemed to be OK.
After replacing it the car started right up after sitting for 3 days in the cold. Ran smooth again, took it into town and back and the light went out just before I made it back home.
Thanks for the replies and best wishes!
It was the sensor and although I did not see any visible problems with the sensor I replaced it anyways.
I had to use a 20mm long socket to reach it, would have been easier with a extension but I managed without one. While I was there I check for corrosion on the wires and connector. The connector itself is plastic so no issues there other than making sure you don't snap the clip. My wiring and connector seemed to be OK.
After replacing it the car started right up after sitting for 3 days in the cold. Ran smooth again, took it into town and back and the light went out just before I made it back home.
Thanks for the replies and best wishes!
He replaced the temperature coolent sensor that is located on the cylinder head (on the tranny side of the head). It is difficult to see because even after you remove the plastic air intake, you will need to disconnect some sensors and move the wiring harness some to get clear access to it.
The location of the sensor depends on if you have a DOHC or SOHC. I have a DOHC, and mine was actually easy to get to, and I didn't have to move anything out of the way because it sits to the left fuel rail.


