Why not just put a turbo and nos on, build the motor, new cam, PCM, an LSD, slicks and have a 9 second car?????

 

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IN REPLY TO ALL OF THIS:

-REMEMBER, MONEY IS MY ENEMY RIGHT NOW! LOL! I want something $600 or less that will get me going faster.

-N2O is NOT FLAMMABLE! It simply breaks apart into 2 parts nitrogen and 1 part oxygen. The oxygen feeds the flames of whatever you're burning (gasoline) but it does not catch fire itself. It simply makes the gasoline burn faster. In this burning faster, yes, it will burn hotter and more violently, but unless you puncture a nitrous bottle and pour flammable liquid all over it and light it, it won't explode. I figure it would do about the same as CO2. When I was at work once, our CO2 tank got punctured, but all it did was leak a tiny amount of frozen liquid CO2 and then freeze itself shut again. No fire, no explosion, even though CO2 will not feed flames or anything, either...Just my assumption that N2O would do about the same if punctured.

-Can you please explain more about which turbos will fit on a 98 SOHC Auto? And, exactly what will I need to buy to get it on?

 

Right most fmic were put on at dealerships around here.

 

The thing to get is the turbo manifold or header they make usually in cast iron or a high heat material. Should cost you no more then 400 dollars and the bigger downpipe. Go with the junkyard turbo like the ones weve stated. Get the fmic or smic intercooler w/ it and bolt it all right on get the piping kit...should only cost like 600 cuz its what they sell it for w/out turbo and you could have it all for thousands less then a turbo kit. and spend your money on the motor to get upgraded to 8-5-1 compression. The pistons and rings could cost almost 400 dollars for a set so do some shopping around to find the cheapest. DO NOT BUY CAST pistons only buy forged w/ this application... You dont have to worry to much about connecting rods cuz they are a lot better then honduhs even at 16 psi. SO you will also have to change your timing a bit as well as injectors and fuel flow. All this could cost in excess of 2500 dollars but still 7000 dollars less then buying it all outright. And when you want to upgrade to a high output turbo ball bearing or more then you can do a direct bolt on boost control and go race.... Good Idea to get a turbo applicable cam as well.... if u dont do the upgrades to your motor just run @6psi.

 

dont we all wish it was that easy...

btw. pcm? more like standalone and LOTS AND LOTS of tuning to run 9s

plan on spending a ton of money to run that fast :lol:

if money is the enemy.. just start with the simple boltons, skip the nitrous/turbo for now until you can afford it and/or afford breaking parts.

you can make just about any turbo fit it, so long as the manifold/turbo header you get has the correct flange on it.

didnt know mitsu offered a fmic option for the dsm? never heard of it at least, and ive been on the dsm forums ever since i bought mine last year (91 eagle talon tsi)

incorrect sir. you DO have to worry about the stock neon rods, as theyve been known to stretch right around the 250-270 torque area. psi isnt the factor you need to worry about, its how much torque you are creating.
say what? im going to assume for a second that you are actually referring to the ignition timing, and not cam/crank timing. you can safely run a stage2 turbo kit (or more) without changing the factory ignition setup at all. ive know several people to do so.
and if you are referring to cam timing. you do not need to change that at all when boosting. sure, some/a turbo grind cam would be optimal, but not necessary.

 

When I went and bought my cams they had a specific ordeal about the camming w. the turbo and said it would be an optimal upgrade. Mine are crane cams so you might not need it but they recommended it. No it isnt factory upgrade they just put em on round here in a college town it is more appealing for some reason. They would buy out the old 95-99 eclipses back from the owners and sell em w/ the FMIC on little upgrades. Dont ask me why...I wish I knew. Prolly more money for em... And about the 270 torque range..... you arent goin ta get that kinda torque from a mostly stock motor anyways so it is quite safe to run the stock connecting rods. The most hps youll prolly get from it is about 200-220 anyhow with a stock motor.

 

Thats funny Tho that u got a 91 talon tsi cuz i got an eclipse gsx 91 parts car and a talon tsi daily diver....lol thas funny cuz we got rts and talons. LOL

 

i beg to differ. i know someone who was running 15psi (i forget which turbo. near the size of a 16g tho) and had rod problems.

ive also seen quite a few dynos of stock-internal turbo'd neons pushing that limit. heck, one in particular (turbo amy) is either around that area, or past it, and im pretty sure she said she was still on stock internals.

if you slap a big enough turbo on it, feed it enough fuel, and control the ignition timing, you can easily surpass that 270 tq range. no doubt. 20g turbo anyone? even the evo8 16g will surpass that limit as well. and while you can, its just not recommended of course

 

im actually selling my talon as we speak. it should hopefully be sold on saturday. reason is that its costing me around $60/week in gas whereas the neon im hoping to pick up will be more like $40/week. thats like $80/mo saved or more.

 

Funny, my last job (for 9 years) was nuclear engineering (less than an hour from your house, actually). I'm guessing you don't know much about those either.

Not at all opposite. You're saying that using nitrous takes nothing more than pushing a button, which any child could do. So it appears your concept of "cheating" is anything that doesn't take much effort. I'm saying anyone can hold a pedal to the floor for 20 seconds, what's the difference? Anyone can change tires, what's the difference? For that matter, anyone can buy a Supra, is that cheating? CAI's are easy to install, and you don't have to operate anything while driving, so that must be cheating too... Weight reduction is definitely cheating becuase it doesn't even cost anything.

Cheating, by definition, is to deceive or deprive by trickery, to swindle, mislead, fool, elude or escape. If you can logically explain exactly how using nitrous oxide is truly cheating, I'm all ears. Just because you don't understand it doesn't make it wrong.

Yes, I can make a nitrous setup that is just as reliable as any turbo setup or high compression setup. It all has to do with fuel trim, octane, and ignition timing - ultimately it has to do with peak internal cylinder pressure, but that's tough to measure real time on most cars... Morons (even not-so-morons) blow their engines all the time (even mostly stock) because they either can't or don't tune properly or don't use safety features (fuel pressure cutout, etc.), or they put too much torque on stock components. Nitrous is no different than any other type of forced induction in that respect.

Bottles are for babies... cute! That goes right up there with "There's no replacement for displacement" and "Horsepower sells cars, but torque wins races" as my all-time favorite ignoramus musclecar catchy sayings.