1st Gen Neon 1995 through 1999 Neons

98 neon fuel gauge ??'s

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 4, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #1  
wickedklown83's Avatar
wickedklown83
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Default 98 neon fuel gauge ??'s

ok i recently acquired a 98 neon automatic with the SOHC with 58k mile on it for 150 dollars.. needed head work, got that fixed and car runs, but now i have run into a wiring issue that has got me stumped. the fuel gauge does not work 95% of the time, when it does work is when other things start messin up.. what will happen is most of the time the dash will work perfectly normal except the fuel gauge.. but once in a while when you turn on the marker lights the dash will light up normal if the door is open, but if you close the door ( or push the button for the door chime ( not the one for the dome light) ) the fuel gauge will work, BUT at the cost of the dash lights go out and the turn signal lights and highbeam indicator light lights up, if you let off the door ajar button the dash returns to normal but the fuel gauge shuts back off... sorry for the long post but wanted to give as much info as possible
 
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2010 | 11:58 AM
  #2  
bg1995redneon's Avatar
bg1995redneon
Captain
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 724
Likes: 1
From: Hazel Green, AL
Default

Sounds like you have a grounding problem.

You need to get a Haynes manual and check all the grounds. The two main grounding straps are under the hood. One under the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and one on the passenger side firewall. Make sure there is no rust or corrosion or breaks in them and that they are tightly connected on each end.

Then you need the manual to show you where to check the grounding points for the various circuits. Again, check for tight, clean connections.

If they all check out, then you need to check the circuits for shorting issues. Any rub or cut in the insulation where you see exposed wire means you have a possible point of failure - especially if it is next to other exposed wires or bare metal.

Good luck. These issues are usually the worst ones to find and fix. If you don't have the expertise or time to do it yourself, contact various mechanics in the area and ask them who the best company/person/group in your area to diagnose electrical problems. Usually mechanics know and will recommend someone who is truly gifted in this area and even will use them when they cannot find out what is wrong. If you lived in North Alabama, I know who I would send you to - because they fixed a problem in one day that 8 other mechanics could not find on my old 1978 Volkswagon Rabbit.
 
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2010 | 04:55 PM
  #3  
wickedklown83's Avatar
wickedklown83
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Default

ok.. so i will start with searching all my grounds out ( i do have a manual but find it damn near useless ) i believe it may be something with a ground so we will have to start there... and i always do my own work so i will fight with a headache through this one but maybe it will help someone else in the long run
 
Reply
Old Oct 8, 2010 | 08:28 AM
  #4  
Ghost Neon 2's Avatar
Ghost Neon 2
Record Breaker
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, Maryland
Default

You may find a factory service manual more helpful

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-...sQ5fLiterature
 
Reply
Old Oct 8, 2010 | 09:52 AM
  #5  
wickedklown83's Avatar
wickedklown83
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Default

ok i have a grade A idiot question.. i put in a aftermarket head unit and did not attach the ground strap than bolted to the back of the factory head unit.. could that be causing the issues?.. also does anyone have pictures of wwhere ALL the ground connections are for these cars? sorry im use to working on older ford trucks
 
Reply
Old Oct 8, 2010 | 05:55 PM
  #6  
wickedklown83's Avatar
wickedklown83
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Default

UPDATE:::: i tested and checked all ground straps and all good... messed with the dash and how it has the 2 connectors on the back of it.. if i wiggle the cluster it will work, but as soon as it makes full contact it dies out.. made some "redneck" jumpers and jumped from wiring to cluster and is i tapped the pin the gauge would jump up, but if i straight touch it it pegs below empty (thats what it has been doing) i tried 2 different PCM's from the same year and style (engine, trans, etc) and to now change.. i tried changing the pigtail connectors and still same thing, i have 2 different clusters i have swapped and tried.. and same results... it acts as if its almost 'shorting' itself out, but does not effect any fuses... any ideas??
 
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2010 | 08:04 AM
  #7  
B-miester's Avatar
B-miester
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Default Same problem

Hey, i had the same problem on my 96, i didnt find the actual solution, but i needed mtygauges back, what i did was take out my plug in the door (the lower button, that runs the chime) and basically ground out that wire. Yes its a crude method, but it has worked perfectly for a week now.
 
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:56 AM.