Help .
Hi ,
I just bought a 1998 Neon with 29k on the odometer . It ran great and drove nice ( no rattles squeaks etc) . It lost power on the way home ( engine wanted to rev but it slowed down) now it has a nasty knocking sound whent it's first started and when it revs up . I know a little about cars and I checked the oil before I bought it and it was extremely clean as was the antifreeze ( no stop leak etc ) Any one ever have one like this ? I bought this for my son to drive and he's pretty discourged and I really don't blame him for being that way . Like I said it's a 29k mile car and it even smells new ...
I just bought a 1998 Neon with 29k on the odometer . It ran great and drove nice ( no rattles squeaks etc) . It lost power on the way home ( engine wanted to rev but it slowed down) now it has a nasty knocking sound whent it's first started and when it revs up . I know a little about cars and I checked the oil before I bought it and it was extremely clean as was the antifreeze ( no stop leak etc ) Any one ever have one like this ? I bought this for my son to drive and he's pretty discourged and I really don't blame him for being that way . Like I said it's a 29k mile car and it even smells new ...
Thanks ,
I wasn't driving the car home ( my son was ) and he told me that the car also would not pick up speed when he pressed on the gas pedal but it did rev up . Could this be a dirty filter issue or maybe something else ? He said it only did it once . How much of a hassle is the istalling of a crank kit ?
I wasn't driving the car home ( my son was ) and he told me that the car also would not pick up speed when he pressed on the gas pedal but it did rev up . Could this be a dirty filter issue or maybe something else ? He said it only did it once . How much of a hassle is the istalling of a crank kit ?
Why use a nuke when all you may need is a firecracker?
Before you go yanking and tearing down the motor, don't you think it would be a good idea to test the compression and perform a leak down test first?
Also, it is knocking in the bottom end, or is it a case of valve rattle? Does it go away when warmed up, or keep on? Does it get quieter when warmed up, or keeps on? A mechanics stethoscope can help you determine which it is if you are not sure.
Loud rattling valves means you need a good head job. Knocking motor at 29K means that someone may have run it out of oil, so if you hook up an oil pressure guage to the port for the oil pressure sending unit, you can see if you are getting good oil pressure.
Auto or manual. If slipping and its manual, you may need a new clutch. If automatic and the motor revs but the car does not accelerate, then you may have a tranny problem.
Private sale or from a lot? If its from a lot, I hope your state has laws that can help you return a lemon. If it was a AS IS sale, my condolences.
Before you go yanking and tearing down the motor, don't you think it would be a good idea to test the compression and perform a leak down test first?
Also, it is knocking in the bottom end, or is it a case of valve rattle? Does it go away when warmed up, or keep on? Does it get quieter when warmed up, or keeps on? A mechanics stethoscope can help you determine which it is if you are not sure.
Loud rattling valves means you need a good head job. Knocking motor at 29K means that someone may have run it out of oil, so if you hook up an oil pressure guage to the port for the oil pressure sending unit, you can see if you are getting good oil pressure.
Auto or manual. If slipping and its manual, you may need a new clutch. If automatic and the motor revs but the car does not accelerate, then you may have a tranny problem.
Private sale or from a lot? If its from a lot, I hope your state has laws that can help you return a lemon. If it was a AS IS sale, my condolences.
It is a rod knock ,there is metal showing on the dipstick . I still have no idea why it let go . I ran a carfax and everything comes back as stated . 29 K Miles and one owner for 12 yrs and 4 months so who knows .


