Do yo hear a "buzzing" sound from the rear with the ignition cylinder at the key-on position?

Check the small yellow fuel pump fuse in the PDC (fude box) under hood.

Also thoroughly visually inspect the lower half of the engine harness that runs behind the engine.

Is the downstream O2 connected?

 

well tried again while disconnecting sensors no change every once in a while i get chook chook sound like a muffled air pump like it wants to turn over so I pulled out my plugs and there wet so now i pulled them out and propped open my TB maybe i got some bad gas in the fuel pump swap or maybe moisture in the lines still no codes put fresh gas with heet and fuel system cleaner in premium of course will let it dry out for a few days... when i see the spark plug fire should it be a barr of electricity or just a heavy arc i see a heavy arc

also what r the signs of bad compression? and to get this right i pull a spark plug screw in tester and rotate the engine manually right?

 

Correct.

 

good luck rotating manually while plugs are still in. you can just crank the starter for a couple ov revoulutions then check the highest reading on the comp gague.
were the plugs wet with gas or oil?

the heavy arc is a good thing, means u have spark.

so you got gas, spark, how about Air and compression.
Check the air filter and exhaust that they are not blocked, and let us know when you figure out the compression test

that where did this 2.4 come from? was it running when it was pulled?

 

i dont know what there wet with smells like wierd gas and ether./ 2.4 is out of a stratus when i first put it in it ran fine got around the block and it stopped popped the code42 and 31 found bare wire under back seat fixed it but fuel pump quit humming so i put in a new one in no air filter (as of yet will be once she starts running). exhaust is fine compression is fine. no sensors problems no codes besides the egr code i am so sure its bad gas though now, but what now with that as my lead do i just keep cranking

 

if you wanna drain the tank use the fuel pump to do it, disconnect the fuel line and put into a container, turn the key on and let the pump do the rest, if the pump keeps shutting down because the engine isnt running jump 12v (fused) directly to the pump (but please use a switch as sparks can occur when jumping wires together, you are dealing with gas and vapours at this point remember).

I'm stiil in the camp of timing not fuel, but im thousand miles away and your there so you can see, hear feel, and smell, better that I from this vantage point.

have you confirmed that the cams didnt skip time when you 1/2 dumped the clutch on your initial test drive?

 

all my timing marks are lined up arrow to arrow on bottom straight across on my cams

 

ok for the next clue i pulled the fuel rail off put it in a large bowl while still connected and cranked it she started up and ran for a few seconds and the spark plugs keep getting wet am i on the right track for bad gas?

reinstalled the fuel rail and now she is sputtering every 3 or 4 ccranks but now the battery is dead again so ill be waiting for any advice

 

if the rail was off how did the car run? as the fuel would not be going into the engine it would be going into your container?

when it ran for a few seconds, did the car just run on whatever fuel was in the cylinders already?

 

as i had said the spark plugs were wet so there would of been some residual fuel it only ran for 3 seconds at most but it ran none the less all ive been getting is cranking

if water (even ever so little) would of gotten in there would it stop detonaton in fuel chamber

what is really getting me is that it did run when the fuel rail was removed what the hell could that be about?