Rims... how big can i go
ORIGINAL: RadarLove
The biggest I've personally seen is 19x8" wheels with 245/30/19 tires. He was lowered with coilovers (spring perch not an issue), had Vitor's bent lateral links in back, and still had to cut into the fenderwell linings - so he could drop the frame to the ground when parked. Drive height was 3-4 inches lower than stock. Looks cool, not my thang.
With 20" wheels, you'd have to hunt down (and afford) a wicked low profile tire to keep the same tire diameter.
I'm not the one saying a 20" wheel is realistic or practical. The original post wanted to know how "big" of wheel he could go with a 2" drop. You responded with wheel diameter measurements. All I'm saying is wheel diameter is not the issue, with or without a drop.
I'm also saying that with the same tire diameter as stock, dropping the car 2" closes the "gap" by the same amount regardless of what size wheels are on the car. What would be the point of adding "more tire"? Ride? Looks? Off-roading?
I'm also saying the offset and tire section width have much more to do with proper fitment than wheel diameter, as long as you stay close to stock tire diameter.
Slammed - if you can get me the tire section width (or tire brand/model and I'll look it up myself) and the width and offset of the wheels, I'll do the calculations for you and let you know how close it will be. Tire height is smaller than stock, so no worries there (except your speedo will read higher than actual speed). Section width should be anywhere in the 8.4-8.7" range (213-220mm) on the recommeded 8" rim width. Most 1st gens will tolerate about 6" of backspacing in the rear before rubbing on the lateral link, so an offset of 40 would be extremely close, an offset of 38 would give you a little breathing room, much smaller than 36, and you'll have to start worrying about rubbing up front on hard corners. You can use spacers if the offset is a little to high, but spacing more than 5mm takes you off the hub support and generally requires longer wheel studs... I don't recommend either, unless the spacers are hubcentric ($$$), not generic/universal ($5).
The biggest I've personally seen is 19x8" wheels with 245/30/19 tires. He was lowered with coilovers (spring perch not an issue), had Vitor's bent lateral links in back, and still had to cut into the fenderwell linings - so he could drop the frame to the ground when parked. Drive height was 3-4 inches lower than stock. Looks cool, not my thang.
With 20" wheels, you'd have to hunt down (and afford) a wicked low profile tire to keep the same tire diameter.
I'm not the one saying a 20" wheel is realistic or practical. The original post wanted to know how "big" of wheel he could go with a 2" drop. You responded with wheel diameter measurements. All I'm saying is wheel diameter is not the issue, with or without a drop.
I'm also saying that with the same tire diameter as stock, dropping the car 2" closes the "gap" by the same amount regardless of what size wheels are on the car. What would be the point of adding "more tire"? Ride? Looks? Off-roading?
I'm also saying the offset and tire section width have much more to do with proper fitment than wheel diameter, as long as you stay close to stock tire diameter.
Slammed - if you can get me the tire section width (or tire brand/model and I'll look it up myself) and the width and offset of the wheels, I'll do the calculations for you and let you know how close it will be. Tire height is smaller than stock, so no worries there (except your speedo will read higher than actual speed). Section width should be anywhere in the 8.4-8.7" range (213-220mm) on the recommeded 8" rim width. Most 1st gens will tolerate about 6" of backspacing in the rear before rubbing on the lateral link, so an offset of 40 would be extremely close, an offset of 38 would give you a little breathing room, much smaller than 36, and you'll have to start worrying about rubbing up front on hard corners. You can use spacers if the offset is a little to high, but spacing more than 5mm takes you off the hub support and generally requires longer wheel studs... I don't recommend either, unless the spacers are hubcentric ($$$), not generic/universal ($5).
I hear ya. I'm one of those guys that believes that the wheels should be just big enough to fit over the brakes. Only reason I went to 14's is to get decent street tires (195/60R14 Yok ES100's). Biggest I'd even consider is SSR Comp 15x8's, and only because they weigh 3 pounds less than what I've got now. But then I'd have to upgrade to Vitor's big brake kit to justify it... 
Almost forgot how green CT is. I just moved here from Norwich back in December.

Almost forgot how green CT is. I just moved here from Norwich back in December.
ORIGINAL: RadarLove
I hear ya. I'm one of those guys that believes that the wheels should be just big enough to fit over the brakes. Only reason I went to 14's is to get decent street tires (195/60R14 Yok ES100's). Biggest I'd even consider is SSR Comp 15x8's, and only because they weigh 3 pounds less than what I've got now. But then I'd have to upgrade to Vitor's big brake kit to justify it...
Almost forgot how green CT is. I just moved here from Norwich back in December.
I hear ya. I'm one of those guys that believes that the wheels should be just big enough to fit over the brakes. Only reason I went to 14's is to get decent street tires (195/60R14 Yok ES100's). Biggest I'd even consider is SSR Comp 15x8's, and only because they weigh 3 pounds less than what I've got now. But then I'd have to upgrade to Vitor's big brake kit to justify it...

Almost forgot how green CT is. I just moved here from Norwich back in December.
I guess I've been here to long to relieze how green it is. 18 years in this state...lol, where did you move from??? Are you ever on the pike???



