Fuel Pump 98 Neon Coup
#21
01-14-2012, 04:50 PM
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Well new year, new fuel pump, same issue
Got to drive it home, back to work, and then on the way home same frigging thing. Blowing fuse after fuse for the fuel pump.
I'm going to run a new line to the pump itself but I'm just wondering if anyone knows what else runs on that fuse. I know fuel pump, up and down stream O2 Sensors.
Are there any other parts on that circuit?
Got to drive it home, back to work, and then on the way home same frigging thing. Blowing fuse after fuse for the fuel pump.
I'm going to run a new line to the pump itself but I'm just wondering if anyone knows what else runs on that fuse. I know fuel pump, up and down stream O2 Sensors.
Are there any other parts on that circuit?
#23
01-14-2012, 07:31 PM
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#25
01-16-2012, 06:38 AM
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Well pryed the PDC off of the battery holder and everything looks pretty good there. Nothing looks striped or rubbed. So to try and narrow down the issue my father suggested running a wire from the power on the fuel pump to a switch I have inside for my rad fans. That way I can take a peek under the hood and see if that fuel pump fuse has blown again and be sure its something else on that same circuit.
But we have run into a new issue and this one is really out there; When we tested to see weather or not the switch would work for the fuel pump my father noticed that I have 2 wires attached to the front of the engine block from the negative on my rad fad and negative from the battery were getting hot enough to burn the tape. Come to find out, hooking up the voltmeter body to negative, there is a short somewhere else supply 12v to the chassis. Ended up yanking the fuse for the interior lights and that solved the issue.
I rechecked the PDC to make sure nothing got pinched, disconnected the fuel pump harness, and checked the light wires in the trunk to see if they had rubbed through. a whole lot of nadda. Does anyone know of a common fail point for interior lights?
But we have run into a new issue and this one is really out there; When we tested to see weather or not the switch would work for the fuel pump my father noticed that I have 2 wires attached to the front of the engine block from the negative on my rad fad and negative from the battery were getting hot enough to burn the tape. Come to find out, hooking up the voltmeter body to negative, there is a short somewhere else supply 12v to the chassis. Ended up yanking the fuse for the interior lights and that solved the issue.
I rechecked the PDC to make sure nothing got pinched, disconnected the fuel pump harness, and checked the light wires in the trunk to see if they had rubbed through. a whole lot of nadda. Does anyone know of a common fail point for interior lights?
#26
01-19-2012, 03:17 PM
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#27
01-20-2012, 11:37 AM
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Well I just think out loud then.
I can't really see of anyway the circuit for the fuel pump and the circuit for the interior lights being connected enough to only affect each other and no other circuit.
Where ever this short is its on a circuit that either doesn't have enough current to blow the fuse on it or its a part that is really screwed up and is somehow leaking power to ground
I can't really see of anyway the circuit for the fuel pump and the circuit for the interior lights being connected enough to only affect each other and no other circuit.
Where ever this short is its on a circuit that either doesn't have enough current to blow the fuse on it or its a part that is really screwed up and is somehow leaking power to ground