Rear Strut
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
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Rear Strut
I just recently recieved a 1998 r/t neon and it had been hit in the rear causing the strut to be bent.
I have ordered a new one.
I was just wondering what steps, and tips, I would need to know to replace it myself.
Also anything else I should change/look for since it had been damaged in the rear.
I have ordered a new one.
I was just wondering what steps, and tips, I would need to know to replace it myself.
Also anything else I should change/look for since it had been damaged in the rear.
Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,205
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RE: Rear Strut
The hardest part is getting that center bolt done/undone. The big nut (22mm?) is attached to the strut shaft, which will rotate if you try to turn it. Since you're throwing it away, you might try a pair of vice grips on the shaft and see if that works. There is a spot on the top of the shaft for a 10mm socket. So the trick is to get both sockets on there and turn them in opposite directions. The most common way is:
- use a 1/4" drive 10mm socket and put it on the top of the strut shaft
- on top of that, use a spark plug socket (7/8"?) that has flat edges to fit on the large bolt
- drop a 6" extension (1/4" drive) through the top of the spark plug socket and connect to the 10mm socket underneath
- use a ratchet on the extension, and an adjustable (or open end) wrench on the socket and turn in opposite directions - the big nut goes righty-tighty/lefty-loosey like normal...
I think the first time I did this I used an O2 sensor remover with a dime wedged in there. Worked OK, but the spark plug socket worked better.
You'll want to support the spindle (where the rear brake is) when doing this. Doesn't really matter if you disconnect the top of the strut or the bottom (where it connects to the spindle) first. Then there's the bolt holding on the brake line that's attached to the strut, and there may be rear sway bar attachments. Once the whole assembly is out (strut and spring), you'll have to use a spring compressor before attempting to take off the top mount - if you want to save the spring, that is... salvage yards usually have the whole strut/spring assembly for under $50. They might have just springs for $10-15 if you look around. You can rent spring compressors from the parts store, usually for free.
Frankly, unless you've got really low miles on the car (under 50k), I'd go ahead and replace both in the rear if going new.
There are 2 rods going from each spindle to the center of the car. Those should be dead on straight. If not, it's cheap enough to get them from the dealer ($15 or so). Then there's the trailing arm going from each spindle forward - also straight, closer to $25 new. Check to make sure the rubber bushings on all those rods are in decent shape. Check the gas tank for damage, particularly if it's on the right side (fuel pump location). And get an alignment as soon as you've got parts replaced. In fact, consider doing Firestone's lifetime deal - $160 or so for as long as you own the car, as often as you want, as many times as you want. Pays for itself after 4 or 5 times, and I've had mine done 9 times in the last 2 years or so.
Best of luck!
- use a 1/4" drive 10mm socket and put it on the top of the strut shaft
- on top of that, use a spark plug socket (7/8"?) that has flat edges to fit on the large bolt
- drop a 6" extension (1/4" drive) through the top of the spark plug socket and connect to the 10mm socket underneath
- use a ratchet on the extension, and an adjustable (or open end) wrench on the socket and turn in opposite directions - the big nut goes righty-tighty/lefty-loosey like normal...
I think the first time I did this I used an O2 sensor remover with a dime wedged in there. Worked OK, but the spark plug socket worked better.
You'll want to support the spindle (where the rear brake is) when doing this. Doesn't really matter if you disconnect the top of the strut or the bottom (where it connects to the spindle) first. Then there's the bolt holding on the brake line that's attached to the strut, and there may be rear sway bar attachments. Once the whole assembly is out (strut and spring), you'll have to use a spring compressor before attempting to take off the top mount - if you want to save the spring, that is... salvage yards usually have the whole strut/spring assembly for under $50. They might have just springs for $10-15 if you look around. You can rent spring compressors from the parts store, usually for free.
Frankly, unless you've got really low miles on the car (under 50k), I'd go ahead and replace both in the rear if going new.
There are 2 rods going from each spindle to the center of the car. Those should be dead on straight. If not, it's cheap enough to get them from the dealer ($15 or so). Then there's the trailing arm going from each spindle forward - also straight, closer to $25 new. Check to make sure the rubber bushings on all those rods are in decent shape. Check the gas tank for damage, particularly if it's on the right side (fuel pump location). And get an alignment as soon as you've got parts replaced. In fact, consider doing Firestone's lifetime deal - $160 or so for as long as you own the car, as often as you want, as many times as you want. Pays for itself after 4 or 5 times, and I've had mine done 9 times in the last 2 years or so.
Best of luck!