1st Gen Neon 1995 through 1999 Neons

1995 Dodge Neon PLEASE HELP

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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 10:54 AM
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Unhappy 1995 Dodge Neon PLEASE HELP

I have gas and white smoke coming out my tail pipe and my car just chug's. Can someone please give me an idea of what the problem could be.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 12:55 PM
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From: Hazel Green, AL
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My first thought is a blown head gasket. If I were you, I would stop driving it immediately.

Is the Check Engine light on?

Do the "Dodge Key dance" - on/off three times quickly and then on the fourth on cycle, watch the Check engine light. It will begin blinking. Count those blinks. When it pauses, write down the number of blinks you saw. Keep watching. Each set of two digits is an error code. It will continue blinking and pausing until you see an error code of 55. You can repeat the key dance as many times as you need to in order to make sure you got it right.

Let us know what the error codes are. Error code(s) 12 and 55 can be ignored. Anything else is relevent.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 02:17 PM
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What is the dodge key dance Are you saying to turn the key back and forth? And then count each time the service light comes on? I'm not driving it I don't want to do any more damage than what is possibly done. It all started when I went through some deep water unknowingly. The next day it seemed to start running crappy. Then it started shutting off driving down the road, I would put it in neutral, it would start and go some more. Then it started blowing my 30amp fuse that's under the hood. I have a friend that's kinda like a back yard mechanic he said he believed the fuse went to my fuel pump and maybe the water knocked the wire loose going to the pump so he wired it directly to the pump. Since then it has just gotten worse. So now when you start it, it just chugs real hard and the white smoke and gas chugs out with it. All of this took place over a 2 week period. Thank you in advance for everything you try and help me figure out....
 
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 07:24 PM
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Yep your dead on with the key dance, flip it 3 times and count lights. I would do a leak down and or compression check. Chance you sucked water in the motor and hurt it also.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 12:41 PM
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Ok I done the key dance that was very helpful thank you These are the codes that came up....12-27-43-21-55......Is there any way you can tell me what they are and what they mean? Also is there a way I can sign in on this site and go straight to my post?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by teresaingle
Ok I done the key dance that was very helpful thank you These are the codes that came up....12-27-43-21-55......Is there any way you can tell me what they are and what they mean? Also is there a way I can sign in on this site and go straight to my post?
The link is on one of the "stickys" that are always at the top of the 1st gen thread forum - but here it is directly:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/general...d-engines.html


Here are what your specific codes mean:

12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles

21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream

27 Injector control circuit

43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire

55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)

Sounds like the water may have just shorted out your system and caused a lot of "failures" due to water intrusion.

Try these things:


1) Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. This will also clear all the old error codes.

2) Take the car somewhere enclosed (garage, etc) and get a gas heater and use it to dry the car out fully - especially under the hood. Take a hair dryer to all the wires, connectors, fuse panels, etc to really get them dry.

3) Check all of the wiring and connectors on the car (especially the O2, cam, crank, VSS sensors). Make sure they are clean, dry, connected tight, and no wires have cracks, splits, exposed wires, melted spots, etc.

4) Go ahead and do a compression check to make sure that it is OK. If you can, get a leakdown test done as well, but the leakdown test can wait if you don't have the equipment. While you are at it, make sure that all the spark plugs are cleaned and properly gapped. It also would not hurt to blow some compressed air into each cyl to get out any remaining water.

5) change the oil and filter to make sure you DONT have any water in it.

6) you may want to take the intake manifold off and blow it out to insure there is no water in it.

7) The gas tank has a drain plug. it is just a rubber cap and it is easy to get to. Hook a hose up to it and let it run into a big drain pan. I don't know how much gas is in your tank, but it is not a bad idea to go ahead and drain it out and fill it up with 5 gal of new gas just in case. don't toss it out, it may be OK, but just to be safe.

8) While the tank being drained and the feeder fuel line is off, use a compressor to blow air from the schrader valve (looks like a tire valve on the fuel rail) to blow out any possible bad gas that may be in the system at that point. Just to be safe.

8) Once you have done all of this and connected everything back up, hook the battery cable back on and try to start it. It may not run too good at first, but if it is just a temporary short due to water intrusion, it will get better quickly. If not, well, you cross that bridge when/if you get there - OK?
 

Last edited by bg1995redneon; Nov 8, 2012 at 01:16 PM.
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by teresaingle
Also is there a way I can sign in on this site and go straight to my post?
Yes, whatever email address you used when you created this post will cause an email to be generated each time it is updated - as long as you remain subscribed to the thread.

Your email will contain the link that directs you immediately to this thread, no wading around trying to find it.

also note. When a thread is updated, it automatically goes to the top of the 1st gen forum (immediately under any "stickies"). That way, if you see your thread at the top, you will know that someone posted something.

FYI
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 01:14 PM
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One more thing I forgot to mention. Have that guy who bypassed the fuel pump relay by straight wiring it to the fuel pump undo what he has done.

That was NOT a smart thing to do! the Fuel pump relay and Auto shutdown relay are there to keep your car from destroying itself in the event of a problem with one or more of the controlling sensors going offline - ie: quit working properly - and/or sensing a real problem! By shutting off the fuel, you prevent the car from running, and if there really is a problem that SHOULD stop it from running, that is a good thing.

Instead of bypassing it permanently, he should of just temporarily run a bypass wire to remove the possibility of a fuel pump problem and once he determined that it was functioning, remove it. THAT is acceptable to do, but a permanent bypass is NOT, and in fact, can be extremely dangerous.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 03:41 PM
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Ok from the codes that came up I just put in a new fuel pump, both oxygen sensors, I just got an oil change, and new plugs and plug wires now there are 2 new codes (39&42). The car is running real rich no more gas is coming out of the tail pipe but there is still some WHITE smoke and alot of black carbonminoxide. The car wont stay running by its self I have to keep 1 foot on the brake and 1 on the gas. It drives real rough missy and shakey. To start it you have to keep your foot to the floor and as soon as you let off the gas it dies. Can you please help me I'm running out of money, and I so need my car. Thank You
 
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 10:14 AM
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I don't know what error code 39 is, you need to double check that that is the error you are getting. I tried looking it up just to be sure, and I cannot find error 39.

As for Error 42:

42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles

This could be partially caused by the guy mucking with it earlier, or it could be one or both of your relays going bad. Make double sure all the wiring is clean, tight connections and no exposed wires or places where the wires are rubbed down. I hope you have already removed the bypass, because if you have not, then that is most likely your problem.

Does you horn work? Take the horn relay and swap it with the Fuel Pump relay (they are the same). Try again. If no change, swap the (now) fuel pump relay with the ASR. Try again.
 
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