FAN HELP, UDP for sale
Firstoff, anyone want an MPX underdrive pulley? I had been planning on using it to replace a cracked OE pulley (the joys of used cars...), but the shop didn't quite know how to put it on right (they just tried to put it straight on, whereas MPX and other UDP makers tell you to heat it up for a while and blah blah...). So besides it not having been on right and sticking out too far, I figured I'm using enough power as it is and I didn't want to be running a lesser charge from the alternator (I usually drive short trips, so my battery was teeting on it's last legs for a while).
SO, long story short, a slightly (2 weeks or so at very light, under 3k rpm driving) used and slightly scratched (I think they tapped it with a hammer to get it on and off) underdrive pulley for sale - no belts (I "returned" them to a parts store when I bought my new starter) and no instructions (they didn't send me any like it says on their page)
Does anyone know how bad it is to run a 40a fuse instead of a 30 for the ignition? I was trying to see if my radiator fan fuse was shot, and I noticed that, for some reason, that was the fuse for the ignition.
On that note, my actual problem (current problem, anyway)... I noticed that my radiator fan isn't coming on. Isn't it supposed to when the a/c is set to "on"? Also, would it change things if my a/c wasn't hooked up (the compressor is shot, so I'm using the shorter, ps only belt)? I made a little fusible link yesterday and plan on checking it out a little closer today. I think they might've bumped something when they did the starter, if not... I'm hoping it's the relay and/or the coolant temp sensor as opposed to the actual fan motor.
It's a '95 Dodge Neon Sport, 5 speed, sedan, 130k, new radiator cap and thermostat.
[edit] - I checked the fan, hooked it up to the battery with a 40a fuse and it seems to be working fine... So I'm wondering, if it doesn't come on by itself and it doesn't come on when the a/c is on, wouldn't that imply the relay? I might just go pick one up from advance, since they're not very expensive. On that note, though... think it would do any harm to use that 40a for the fan and use the 30a that's in there for the ignition (which should only be 30, according to the label...)
SO, long story short, a slightly (2 weeks or so at very light, under 3k rpm driving) used and slightly scratched (I think they tapped it with a hammer to get it on and off) underdrive pulley for sale - no belts (I "returned" them to a parts store when I bought my new starter) and no instructions (they didn't send me any like it says on their page)
Does anyone know how bad it is to run a 40a fuse instead of a 30 for the ignition? I was trying to see if my radiator fan fuse was shot, and I noticed that, for some reason, that was the fuse for the ignition.
On that note, my actual problem (current problem, anyway)... I noticed that my radiator fan isn't coming on. Isn't it supposed to when the a/c is set to "on"? Also, would it change things if my a/c wasn't hooked up (the compressor is shot, so I'm using the shorter, ps only belt)? I made a little fusible link yesterday and plan on checking it out a little closer today. I think they might've bumped something when they did the starter, if not... I'm hoping it's the relay and/or the coolant temp sensor as opposed to the actual fan motor.
It's a '95 Dodge Neon Sport, 5 speed, sedan, 130k, new radiator cap and thermostat.
[edit] - I checked the fan, hooked it up to the battery with a 40a fuse and it seems to be working fine... So I'm wondering, if it doesn't come on by itself and it doesn't come on when the a/c is on, wouldn't that imply the relay? I might just go pick one up from advance, since they're not very expensive. On that note, though... think it would do any harm to use that 40a for the fan and use the 30a that's in there for the ignition (which should only be 30, according to the label...)
For short term, using another fuse might be OK, but their cheap enough... If you are blowing fuses of the proper designation, don't use a higher rating just to avoid it...
All the relays under the hood are the same. You can swap the fan relay with the horn relay to test it out. But yes, the rad fan(s) should come on by themselves. With your a/c disconnected, it should come on still unless you've completely disconnected the electronics of the a/c system (low pressure switch, etc.). The fan should come on around 220F and turn off around 200F.
Best of luck!
All the relays under the hood are the same. You can swap the fan relay with the horn relay to test it out. But yes, the rad fan(s) should come on by themselves. With your a/c disconnected, it should come on still unless you've completely disconnected the electronics of the a/c system (low pressure switch, etc.). The fan should come on around 220F and turn off around 200F.
Best of luck!
Well, it still doesn't seem to be coming on... I tested the relays yesterday, after I noticed on my own that they did all have the same numbers... That didn't do much... So, at this point, I'd imagine there has to be some kind of short or broken line in the circuit somewhere... I haven't noticed it coming on, and it doesn't with the a/c on... Everything from the a/c is still there and hooked up...
I'm thinking about, for the time being, (since I was gonna take them out anyway) removing my fog lights (the cheap ones you'd get at advance) and hooking those up to the fan, changing the fuse (or maybe hardwiring the one in the dash and putting one inline on the wire) and doing that modification to make the fog lamps work with or without the headlamps
I'm thinking about, for the time being, (since I was gonna take them out anyway) removing my fog lights (the cheap ones you'd get at advance) and hooking those up to the fan, changing the fuse (or maybe hardwiring the one in the dash and putting one inline on the wire) and doing that modification to make the fog lamps work with or without the headlamps
I wouldn't hardwire the fans. Just trace the wires back and replace what's needed, or just replace all of it.
Hooking up the fog lights to come on with the headlights isn't all that hard, but you really should look into running them from a seperate power source and use a relay to turn them on with the headlights. Mine come on in place of the parking lights (cracked/broken stockers removed), and there's another set of tiny fogs that I use in place of the blinkers. If you just wire the fogs in-line with the headlights, you'll either fry the wiring or blow a fuse. Sounds like you probably would know that already, but others reading might go off on their own and do some damage...
Hooking up the fog lights to come on with the headlights isn't all that hard, but you really should look into running them from a seperate power source and use a relay to turn them on with the headlights. Mine come on in place of the parking lights (cracked/broken stockers removed), and there's another set of tiny fogs that I use in place of the blinkers. If you just wire the fogs in-line with the headlights, you'll either fry the wiring or blow a fuse. Sounds like you probably would know that already, but others reading might go off on their own and do some damage...


