Im about to buy a 98 neon and it gona take a lotta work, first it needs fornt fenders and a front bumper the sunroof leaks.It's only gona cost me 50 bucks. The major problem is the air bag light's on and the service light, and the horn won't stop. How do I stop that horn form going off.How much would if cost me to get the computer rest. How much and where can I get the fenders and front bumper and hood form...the car been sitting for a while their mold all over the inside...The guy wants to junk it biut the engine and tranny is geat took it for a test drive.....

 

Right Front Fender: $84
Left Front Fender: $84
Front Bumper Cover with Fog Holes: $168


I have no idea on the horn and air bag light. You could try resetting the PCM by disconnecting your negative battery cable for about 15 minutes. That will clear any codes.

 

Try a junk yard for the parts, that would be the cheapest route. You probally need a new horn switch. someone probally banged it too hard any messed it up.

 

Need to put in a fuse, their was only one in their.............

 

Wanna upgrade the suspension what do anybody recomend... Springs or coil over can I want to have disk all the way around help

 

As for suspension, you have a couple of options depending on how much you wanna spend. You can go with some Koni struts and eibach springs or mopar coil-overs. You can swap to rear discs if you want, its not really worth it though. You are not going to stop much better and they are heavier.

 

[font="Courier New"]OK thinkin about plugs and wires what do you guys recomend the autozone around my way doesn't carry the NGK denso are a pretty penny what about some sexy wires not the basic, and what engine is in a dohc neon I've been told it the mitsubishi 4g63[/font]

 

plugs?... stay away from plantium as neons hate 'em as much as they hate hondas, and no it is NOT the mitsubishi 4g63, common misconseption, it is the same as the SOHC with dif. head and pistons(and a few odds and ends here and there)

 

Are the front end parts from some sort of run-in? Were the airbags activated? Underneath the center console is the airbag control unit. There's a fuse in the interior fusebox (pretty sure, maybe it's in the PDC behind the battery...). There are connectors going into the driver's side airbag (steering wheel) and the passenger side airbag. Then there are the sensors mounted on the frame, and I'd have to pull out the FSM to figure out where those are... If any of those are disconnected/damaged, you'll get the airbag light. The airbag system is not tied into the PCM at all. Saw that you commented on only one fuse... did that fix it?

For the horn, it could be the switch on the steering wheel (most likely) or just the horn relay in the PDC. If you want the horn to go away and never worry about using it again, just remove the horn relay. If you want to see if it's the relay sticking, just pull a different relay from the same PDC (fuel pump, asd, etc.) and stick it in there. If the horn comes back on, then it's the switch that's bad...

You can reset the PCM by pulling the fuel pump fuse for a couple of minutes. That way you aren't dealing directly with the battery, and you won't reset the radio. Very convenient. If you still have codes, there is bound to be a stickied post here that will tell you how to pull the codes and what they mean. They are just 2-digit codes, and may include several problems each. Autozone will hook up a scanner and pull the 4-digit codes for free, which will help pinpoint problems a lot easier.

I'm assuming you have the 5-speed? Chances are you have either a Sport or Expresso. The suspension packages on those were the softest available (SDC - Touring). The minimum I would ever recommend for an upgrade would be Koni adjustable struts with Mopar High Rate springs. The Konis will run you about $700 new, and the springs around $125 for all 4. This setup is noticeably stiffer, handles very well, and is still fairly comfortable for a daily drive. Mopar X-High Rate springs are available at the same price, perform even better, but the ride is a bit harsh for most people. Both will lower the car about 0.5-0.75". www.phantomhp.com sells a complete coilover kit for well under $1500, with frequent sales around $1k. These units are height adjustable, compression/rebound adjustable (single ****, same as Koni), camber adjustable (new camber plates up front), with pillowball mounts (reliability, road feel), and the struts are properly valved for the spring rates, which are nearly double that of the Mopar High Rates. Note that last part there... If you go trying to stick coilover sleeves or any type of higher rate or lowering spring on the stock-based struts (includes KYB GR-2's, Gabriels, Monroes, etc.), you will have an underdamped setup, which will be bouncy for a year until the struts blow, and then it will be really really bouncy.... That's why I say the Koni/Mopar combo is the minimum. But for a little more, the coilover is a truly competitive setup. Upgrading to the stock R/T front and rear sway bars is plenty for most people. You might want to put on a Mopar adjustable rear bar if you can deal with oversteer on a FWD car. The setup I like the most (not mine...) is an Eibach front sway with the Mopar rear on the stiffest setting. Don't worry about strut tower bars, that's what the firewall and speaker shelf are for...

Like mentioned, the rear discs don't really do much for performance at all. But maintenance is tons easier, particularly if you live in a rust rich area... If you do the swap, you will need the ebrake line from a car with rear discs. You will not need a different proportioning valve or master cylinder (trust me, it's been done hundreds of times, and the parts are the same). It's a pretty easy swap and can be done in an afternoon.

Cheap coppers work fine for plugs. Great even. My Bosch coppers went 40k miles without having to be regapped (checked every oil change). No plug will gain power, some plugs will lose power (platinums in particular). The NGK's (v-power) have a great reputation, and seem to have smoother curves on dyno charts, but again - no extra power. Same goes for wires. The stock units are fine for most people, regardless of resistance readings. The coilpack has plenty of power to make good spark with those wires until you go crazy with the engine and have very large internal pressures in the cylinder (boost, nitrous, turbo). Mopar, MSD, Moroso, Magnecor, and Crane all make great quality wires, just be prepared to pay. Again, no power gains.

Back in '95, when the Neon came out, the 4-cylinder non-turbo Eclipse engine used the same Dodge block that's in the Neon. Mitsubishi designed their own DOHC cylinder head (reverse flow) to go with it. Mitsubishi dubbed that engine the 420A. No Neons have the 420A. The naturally aspirated 4G63 was in the 4-cylinder non-turbo Eclipse up to that point, and the turbo-charged 4G63 was also available in the '95 Eclipses. So it's easy to get confused... The 4G63 is a 100% DSM design, completely unrelated to the 420A (or Neon engine), with no interchangeable parts.

Best of luck!

 

Took my car down to this body shop where my brother work at to have the front end pull out and th bloooks dow there brorh the radioator(thanks) Did the home test of my car found out that tha fan rely want and the was some kind of oil leak athe back of the engine. Took me three days to find the right radatior my neon is made in MEXICO with a u.S radiatior? Took it to another shop for those tree problems (do constrution did have time to do it myself)> The horn works now guess their was to much moisture in the car.............OH just in case i didn't tell you the guy I rought the car fromleft the sun room open and I have a couple inches of water in there for about a year plus trash and vomoit...