My 96 needs new clutch, I was asked if it was made in us or mex. does it matter? I'll be racing this car on dirt short track (less 1/4 mile) should I upgrade clutch? On short track I'll never leave 1st gear

 

there is a letter in the vin that tells you where it was built but i cant find that info right now, you could call auto zone and ask them, they'll help ya find that out, but the clutch on the neon is a modular and not to tough, i would replace it with better if you're going to do any kind of racing with it.

 

Thanks I'll check that # out

 

It's the first number of the VIN that denotes manufacture location. This is relevant in this case because while US built models do in fact have the aforementioned modular clutch, mexican models used a conventional clutch/pressure plate assembly. A 1 denotes a US model while 3 is mexico.

 

clutch masters makes a killer clutch i have the stage 2 one in my car and i love it

 

I'm not 100% certain, but I believe all '96 and newer Neons have the modular clutch regardless of where they were built, whereas all Neons built before '96 at the Mexico plant had conventional clutches instead of the modular clutches.

You should upgrade your clutch if you plan on racing it regardless of what type of racing it is. The Neons' modular clutch is weak and won't hold up too long under race conditions and are even worse if the engine is modified. The stock clutch will start slipping above around 136 ft/lbs. torque. The high torque replacement clutch from Mopar Performance was only good for up to 160 ft/lbs. torque.

 

All 95's have the non-modular clutch. All Neons assembled in Mexico (Toluca plant) have the non-modular clutch. All '96-up Neons assembled in the US (Belvidere plant) have the modular clutch. The 1st digit is the country of origin. There were some Neons that started life in Belvidere but were assembled in Mexico. Use the 11th digit instead, which is the actual assembly plant - "D" is Belvidere (US), "T" is Toluca (Mexico). Yes, I've personally seen Neons (plural) that have a "1" for the 1st digit and "T" for the 11th...

If you have a modular clutch, the non-turbo PT Cruiser clutch is a direct fit (modular), stronger, and less expensive. The Neon's stock clutch may only be "rated" for XXX ft-lbs torque, but there are plenty of us out there on the stock clutch holding just fine at 160+. In fact, most people don't even bother swapping out until they've gone over the 200 ft-lb mark or so. The PT clutch is fine for most folks on stock internals, which means 225-250 ft-lbs or so. It's not the clutch that usually gives, it's the incredibly weak differential pin. Rather than spending money on an ubersuperduperwhamostage umptysquat clutch, consider a decent limited slip instead. Phantom Grip makes a unit that's fairly cheap and easy to install, but it will give out eventually. OBX has a new torsion style for under $600 now that is remarkably similar to the $1200 Quaiffe with the same lifetime warranty.

Nearly all aftermarket clutches are non-modular. Again, you really don't need to go this route.

If you want to convert from non-modular to modular, Mopar sells a conversion kit that includes everything but 4 bolts (which you really, really need) or you can grab a flexplate, dust shield, and the bolts you need from a salvage yard Neon with a modular clutch... If you want to convert from modular to modular, you just need the flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disc from a non-modular Neon (or new, your choice).

Best of luck!

 

I have a 99 mexican neon... I went to the auto parts store and they just gave me a modular clutch, without even asking the vin number. The kit comes with a flywheel, cover, bearings and all. If I wanted to just use this thing, would I need anything else?

 

^^^You'll need different bolts also. The bolts are different from the modular and non-modular.

 

any idea who sells those bolts??