Well it has like 150K miles, I redid the head gasket, t belt, t belt tensioner, all new accessory belts, waterpump, harmonic balancer, ecu, etc at 116K when my sister and mother decided to buy it. I swore I wouldnt work on the car if they got it, cause at the time, all I knew was "stay away, headgasket eater". Anyways. Now that my sister is stuck with it, its been having some problems.

First, it has a cone filter by the brake booster on the stock charge pipe. That will most definately be moved...somewhere, hah.


The car wont pass emmissions, code 12 and 32 are up, and they wont even throw it on the rollers.

The car shifts kinda early, and doesnt like to kick down when gassing it. When driving, it usually starts off in 2nd, unless you punch it, sometimes then it wont even shift down unless you manually do it. It doesnt stay in third long, and goes right to overdrive. Even on the highway, it shifts early.

Also, on the highway, if you floor it, it just kinda makes alot of intake roar and will barely gain any speed, but if you press it like 1/4 way, it will pull pretty good to about 110, then if you floor it, it slows down to 85ish, lol.

It idles kinda rough too.

The cam sensor leaks oil also.


o2's are original. cat and muffler are original. the single wire sensor on the head by the new egr valve is broke I think. the egr silonoid gathers vacuum from a tree off the booster.


What does it need to run right? We are kinda on a **** poor budget too. But she needs the car to get her 1yr old daughter to the doctors, etc etc...

Thanks, Drew

 

Code 12 is nothing.. it just states that the battery has been disconnected within the past 50 key cycles..

Code 32 is EGR System failure, did you replace the EGR solenoid when you replaced the EGR valve? And does that disconnected wire go to the EGR solenoid at all?

As for it bogging.. check your air filter.. also when was the last time you gave it a tune up? Replace plugs with OEM champions..

Another reason for bogging "could" be a clogged cat... get that checked out..

Hope this helps!

 

when the headgasket was changed did you replace it with the MLS gasket? and was it checked for cracks and milled? you already discribed your code 32. for the code 32 check out the egr make sure you don't have any leakes going on there, you could just have a small hole somewhere causing the code to through. as for the tranny when is the last time it had the filter and fluid changed out? under your battery tray is the shifter for the automatic, directly under the battery, sometimes if it gets to rusty it won't shift correctly so try to using some penetrating oil like PB blaster and give it a good blast, not really sure about the cam leak, as for the O2 sensors if there isn't anything wrong with them then let them be, but you won't pass emissions with bad O2's so changed them if they are bad, if the muffler is in bad shape then you might wana changed that as well, to pass emissions your gona need to take care of the egr and O2 sensors ( if they are a problem) and maybe the cat, cat could be clogged but like I said before if its ok then let it be, save some money, hope some of that was helpfull and good luck !!

 

There is no over drive on a neon transmisson, so it is most likely just locking up like it is supposed to. My manual tranny was doing the same thing as far as shifting went, really what it comes down to is the transmission is almost done for. Pull the dipstick and smell it, it most likely smells burnt and is a nasty brown colour. If it is at that point it is most likely time for a rebuild or a manual swap (which is way cheaper). Im not too familiar with a dodge transmisson, but if it is anything like a chevy, just let the nasty fluid be. If you flush it and put in new fluid it will most likely (happens on chevy truck trannys anyways) dislodge crap and clog up valves. Which will in turn cut the life the transmission has by lots.

Does it seem like there is a vacuum leak at all? and is the car running rich or lean? check your plugs to find out. It could be too much air and not enough gas, or vice versa happening when you get on it.

 

code p0403 is all it shows

egr silonoid circuit...

is that wires or vacuum leak or what?

could a clogged egr be a cause?

the paper for the inspection sticker said the o2 sensor, the catylist, and the egr circuit not ready...

if it shows no codes, it will pass....

on the way home, it started running better and shifting good... gonna change cam sensor seal for the oil leak and check shift linkage.... cant do a 5 spd swap, would be easier to find a 5 spd car.

well, what do i do about code p0403?

Thanks, Drew

 

found the problem...

its that little round thing with a silonoid on it that vacuum lines run into the egr...

its plug on it has corroded and only one of the two pins remain.

and the diaphram inside is ripped and nasty...

where can i buy a new one cheap?

Thanks, Drew...