So i was driving home today and i had a bunch of questions i wanted to ask... heres the ones i can remember with the low down
First i want to have a block, and head done by a shop.
What is a good over bore for a daily driver? .020 .030 .040? im thinkin i want .030
The place i will be getting it done will order pistons, can i use the stock rods?????
with .030 over and 10.5:1 pistons can i run the 14 crane cam?
Can i drive'r in the winter???
How long should i break it in AND HOW??? Ive heard two options... RUN IT LIKE CRAZY or slow and steady for 3000miles?
How much would be a good price to pay for a 95 neon 4dr MTX with a bad motor/mounts and a rough body? i was gunna offer like $250
That would leave $750 to get the block bored and pistons, with the head done. I think the place i want to get it done charges 25 per piston to bore, and i dunno how much for pistons or head work.

So any one have any answers??? any would be apreciated!

 

for daily driver I dun think you wanna go too much. me personally I prolly would go wit the 40 tho lol...push it to the limit =D, dependin on how much power your pushin you mite need new rods, are you gonna b racin your car a lil? stoplights? on weekends?...I dunno about the cams, they should b ok. breakin in a new rebuilt engine you dun wanna go over 4000rpm or sumn, til your nex oil change or sumn...I'm a lil rusty on that...I cant remember exactly how many miles til you can start havin fun wit it lol.

I bought my neon for $400 wit bad connectin rod bearings. erything else I was told was fine, body's in decent condition...but the guy I bought it from was a body man.

apart from the boring, are you doin all the work? cause I asked a machinist how much itd b to port an polish my heads an he said about 600-800 cause its DOHC...lol but I dint like him, he was chargin me way to much he tried to feed me stupidness bout how my engine is DOHC so its more expensive, the machinist I deal wit now I never asked since I have no more cash =x

 

.030 sounds good, at least that way your not leaving the wall too thin, but .020 wouldnt be bad as well if your not gona go buck wild on it most likely your gona take it to park ave so .030 sounds good, do you know what shop your going with yet? I take mine to webs Automotive, all the guys there have worked strickly with dodge dealerships and all have been master mechanics plus a couple of dudes there drives neons, and worked on neons a lot at the dealerships, plus when my head cracked he had it shipped out to some shop and had it back the next day, they dye checked for cracks and ran pressure tests I could give him a ring and find out what shop it was. the shop only charged me 200 for the polishing of the valves and to fix the cracks. you could run stock rods but it would be better to upgrade those as well considering the work load they have already taken plus that cam and everything else would just cause more stress, you know how it is here when it snows so you just couldn't drive it around certain sections of town. motor mounts are cheap and easy to fix depening on how ruff the body is if someone where to take 250 for the car that would be a good deal on your part assuming everything else is legit, not sure how to break it in but Id think it woud be safer to go with the 3,000 route good luck !!

 

Anyone else with imput? Thanks!!!

 

typical engine breakin is to not take the car over about 55mph for 500 miles....then you can basically let it rip.....

depending on what kind of pistons you might get, you might have a hard time getting all that work done for 750.00
i would deffinately get new rods if your gonna replace the pistons
bore size also depends on what you might do to the car down the road....if you would ever plan on goin turbo, then you dont wanna do a bigger bore then .20 over

if you wanna get it all done the right way then the shop will have to do more then just bore the block and give it back to ya

with compression like that you will have to be a little carfull driving the car in snow or on slippery road....being the increase in power will be almost equivelant to a low boost turbo

 

the cylinders are thin to begin with on these motors, bore as little as possible, if it even needs it
break in you shouldnt put it under heavy loads or go much abover 4,000 rpm for the first few hundred miles, and on first start up NEVER let it idle for the first half hour of run time,DO NOT use synthetic oil on break in, or semi synthetic. start out at 1800-2500 rpm and vary the speed - easiest way to keep it up a little bit is to fold a piece of paper and stick it under the idle adjustment screw that you cant turn
if you just let it idle all kinds of bad things can happen -when you first fire it, the lifters are always nosy as **** in a dodge, keep the RPM high so they pump up quicker - dont be afraid of that RPM we run V8's at 3200 right off the start
and always expect to have some metal shavings from the rings seating in and some oil smoke from the exhaust for a little while untill they do seat
dont flip out cuz the oil comes out metallic looking change it often,
i usually run one for the first initial run time, go for a good test run then change the oil anf filter right away, the quicker you get the drain plug out after shutting it off the better - even better yet on the 2nd oil change pull the pan off and clean it out cuz you never get all the shavings out through the drain. seems like overkill but i'm picky about engines being clean inside
remember if you use 10.5:1 your gonna have to stay away from 87 octane but it will add some midrange torque.
im in the middle of rebuilding a DOHC so if you have any questions feel free to ask

 

yea i just spent almost $600 in parts and dont even have gaskets yet[:@] god these things are expensive
wouldnt cost me so much except the oil pump crapped out & the cams seized in the head & made a mess out of the rest of it

[IMG]local://upfiles/37714/BBE3F3118AE84815A7DFCFBCEBC43A5B.jpg[/IMG]

 

Does anyone have torque specs? i dont feel like buying a book just for some numbers, i need head bolts ( i know theyre TTY and i know the torque order), rod bolts, bedplate(mains), cam sprockets, cam caps (DOHC), oil pump bolts, anything else important...
if someone could scan a few pages that would be much appreciated
i'd also like to know ring gap and bearing clearence specs
TIA

 

TORQUE CHART 2.0L SOHC
DESCRIPTION ...................TORQUE
Camshaft Sensor Pick Up Bolts ...................9.6N·m(85in.lbs.)
Timing Belt Cover Bolts M6 ................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt ....................115N·m(85ft.lbs.)
Connecting Rod Cap Bolts .........27N·m(20ft.lbs.) Plus 1/4 Turn
Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap/Bedplate M8 Bedplate Bolts ..........30N·m(22ft.lbs.)
M11 Main Cap Bolts ........81N·m(60ft.lbs.)
Crankshaft Damper Bolt ...................142N·m(105 ft. lbs.)
Cylinder Head Bolts .......Refer To Cylinder Head Installation
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Engine Mount Bracket Bolts ....................41N·m(30ft.lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolts ...................23N·m(200 in. lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Front Torque Bracket—2.0/2.4L Engine Bolts ....................33N·m(24ft.lbs.)
Front Torque Bracket Strut—2.0/2.4L Engine Long Bolts ...............110N·m(80ft.lbs.)
Short Bolt ................61N·m(45ft.lbs.)
Intake Manifold Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Oil Filter Adapter Fastener .................80N·m(60ft.lbs.)
Oil Filter .................20N·m(15ft.lbs.)
Oil Pan Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Drain Plug ...............27N·m(20ft.lbs.)
Oil Pump Attaching Bolts ...................28N·m(250 in. lbs.)

TORQUE CHART 2.0L DOHC
DESCRIPTION ...................TORQUE
Camshaft Sensor Pick-Up Bolts ...................9.6N·m(85in.lbs.)
Timing Belt Cover Bolts M6 ................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt ....................115N·m(85ft.lbs.)
Connecting Rod Cap Bolts .........27N·m(20ft.lbs.) Plus 1/4 Turn
Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap/Bedplate M8 Bedplate Bolts ..........30N·m(22ft.lbs.)
M11 Main Cap Bolts ........81N·m(60ft.lbs.)
Crankshaft Damper Bolt ...................142N·m(105 ft. lbs.)
Cylinder Head Bolts .......Refer To Cylinder Head Installation
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Engine Mount Bracket Bolts ....................41N·m(30ft.lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolts ...................23N·m(200 in. lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Bolts ...................15N·m(130 in. lbs.)
Intake Manifold Bolts ...................28N·m(250 in. lbs.)
Oil Filter Adapter Fastener .................80N·m(60ft.lbs.)
Oil Filter .................20N·m(15ft.lbs.)
Oil Pan Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Drain Plug ...............34N·m(25ft.lbs.)
Oil Pump Attaching Bolts ...................28N·m(250 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Cover Fastener . . . 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Pick-up Tube Bolt . 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Relief Valve Cap . . . 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Spark Plugs Plug .....................28N·m(20ft.lbs.)
Thermostat Housing Bolts ...................23N·m(200 in lbs.)
Timing Belt Tensioner ...............28N·m(250 in. lbs.)
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Assembly Plate-Backing Bolts ....................41N·m(30ft.lbs.)
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Bolt .......................68N·m(50ft.lbs.)
Water Pump Mounting Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)

 

With a 10.5:1 will i be able to run turbo down the road??