1st gen Sohc 2.0 $2600 waste? HEEELLLPP!!!
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RE: 1st gen Sohc 2.0 $2600 waste? HEEELLLPP!!!
ORIGINAL: das2123
1)You will want to get new head studs.
2)There is another post recently where I posted the engine torque specs for both the SOHC nad DOHC.
3)You can use Mobil 1 oil, but not for the break-in.
here they are das
TORQUE CHART 2.0L SOHC
DESCRIPTION ...................TORQUE
Camshaft Sensor Pick Up Bolts ...................9.6N·m(85in.lbs.)
Timing Belt Cover Bolts M6 ................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt ....................115N·m(85ft.lbs.)
Connecting Rod Cap Bolts .........27N·m(20ft.lbs.) Plus 1/4 Turn
Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap/Bedplate M8 Bedplate Bolts ..........30N·m(22ft.lbs.)
M11 Main Cap Bolts ........81N·m(60ft.lbs.)
Crankshaft Damper Bolt ...................142N·m(105 ft. lbs.)
Cylinder Head Bolts .......Refer To Cylinder Head Installation
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Engine Mount Bracket Bolts ....................41N·m(30ft.lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolts ...................23N·m(200 in. lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Front Torque Bracket—2.0/2.4L Engine Bolts ....................33N·m(24ft.lbs.)
Front Torque Bracket Strut—2.0/2.4L Engine Long Bolts ...............110N·m(80ft.lbs.)
Short Bolt ................61N·m(45ft.lbs.)
Intake Manifold Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Oil Filter Adapter Fastener .................80N·m(60ft.lbs.)
Oil Filter .................20N·m(15ft.lbs.)
Oil Pan Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Drain Plug ...............27N·m(20ft.lbs.)
Oil Pump Attaching Bolts ...................28N·m(250 in. lbs.)
TORQUE CHART 2.0L DOHC
DESCRIPTION ...................TORQUE
Camshaft Sensor Pick-Up Bolts ...................9.6N·m(85in.lbs.)
Timing Belt Cover Bolts M6 ................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt ....................115N·m(85ft.lbs.)
Connecting Rod Cap Bolts .........27N·m(20ft.lbs.) Plus 1/4 Turn
Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap/Bedplate M8 Bedplate Bolts ..........30N·m(22ft.lbs.)
M11 Main Cap Bolts ........81N·m(60ft.lbs.)
Crankshaft Damper Bolt ...................142N·m(105 ft. lbs.)
Cylinder Head Bolts .......Refer To Cylinder Head Installation
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Engine Mount Bracket Bolts ....................41N·m(30ft.lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolts ...................23N·m(200 in. lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Bolts ...................15N·m(130 in. lbs.)
Intake Manifold Bolts ...................28N·m(250 in. lbs.)
Oil Filter Adapter Fastener .................80N·m(60ft.lbs.)
Oil Filter .................20N·m(15ft.lbs.)
Oil Pan Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Drain Plug ...............34N·m(25ft.lbs.)
Oil Pump Attaching Bolts ...................28N·m(250 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Cover Fastener . . . 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Pick-up Tube Bolt . 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Relief Valve Cap . . . 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Spark Plugs Plug .....................28N·m(20ft.lbs.)
Thermostat Housing Bolts ...................23N·m(200 in lbs.)
Timing Belt Tensioner ...............28N·m(250 in. lbs.)
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Assembly Plate-Backing Bolts ....................41N·m(30ft.lbs.)
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Bolt .......................68N·m(50ft.lbs.)
Water Pump Mounting Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
1)You will want to get new head studs.
2)There is another post recently where I posted the engine torque specs for both the SOHC nad DOHC.
3)You can use Mobil 1 oil, but not for the break-in.
here they are das
TORQUE CHART 2.0L SOHC
DESCRIPTION ...................TORQUE
Camshaft Sensor Pick Up Bolts ...................9.6N·m(85in.lbs.)
Timing Belt Cover Bolts M6 ................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt ....................115N·m(85ft.lbs.)
Connecting Rod Cap Bolts .........27N·m(20ft.lbs.) Plus 1/4 Turn
Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap/Bedplate M8 Bedplate Bolts ..........30N·m(22ft.lbs.)
M11 Main Cap Bolts ........81N·m(60ft.lbs.)
Crankshaft Damper Bolt ...................142N·m(105 ft. lbs.)
Cylinder Head Bolts .......Refer To Cylinder Head Installation
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Engine Mount Bracket Bolts ....................41N·m(30ft.lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolts ...................23N·m(200 in. lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Front Torque Bracket—2.0/2.4L Engine Bolts ....................33N·m(24ft.lbs.)
Front Torque Bracket Strut—2.0/2.4L Engine Long Bolts ...............110N·m(80ft.lbs.)
Short Bolt ................61N·m(45ft.lbs.)
Intake Manifold Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Oil Filter Adapter Fastener .................80N·m(60ft.lbs.)
Oil Filter .................20N·m(15ft.lbs.)
Oil Pan Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Drain Plug ...............27N·m(20ft.lbs.)
Oil Pump Attaching Bolts ...................28N·m(250 in. lbs.)
TORQUE CHART 2.0L DOHC
DESCRIPTION ...................TORQUE
Camshaft Sensor Pick-Up Bolts ...................9.6N·m(85in.lbs.)
Timing Belt Cover Bolts M6 ................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt ....................115N·m(85ft.lbs.)
Connecting Rod Cap Bolts .........27N·m(20ft.lbs.) Plus 1/4 Turn
Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap/Bedplate M8 Bedplate Bolts ..........30N·m(22ft.lbs.)
M11 Main Cap Bolts ........81N·m(60ft.lbs.)
Crankshaft Damper Bolt ...................142N·m(105 ft. lbs.)
Cylinder Head Bolts .......Refer To Cylinder Head Installation
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Engine Mount Bracket Bolts ....................41N·m(30ft.lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolts ...................23N·m(200 in. lbs.)
Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Bolts ...................15N·m(130 in. lbs.)
Intake Manifold Bolts ...................28N·m(250 in. lbs.)
Oil Filter Adapter Fastener .................80N·m(60ft.lbs.)
Oil Filter .................20N·m(15ft.lbs.)
Oil Pan Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
Drain Plug ...............34N·m(25ft.lbs.)
Oil Pump Attaching Bolts ...................28N·m(250 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Cover Fastener . . . 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Pick-up Tube Bolt . 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
Oil Pump Relief Valve Cap . . . 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Spark Plugs Plug .....................28N·m(20ft.lbs.)
Thermostat Housing Bolts ...................23N·m(200 in lbs.)
Timing Belt Tensioner ...............28N·m(250 in. lbs.)
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Assembly Plate-Backing Bolts ....................41N·m(30ft.lbs.)
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley Bolt .......................68N·m(50ft.lbs.)
Water Pump Mounting Bolts ...................12N·m(105 in. lbs.)
here ya go das
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Professional
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Youngstown , ohio (muder capital per capita u.s. )
RE: 1st gen Sohc 2.0 $2600 waste? HEEELLLPP!!!
well im guessing some are online as i type , so maybe i can get a quick answer on the rear main seal issure... as it my most troublesome..
while i was under the deck at valvo , the oil was coming from the left hand side of my motor , (from underneath , facing the forward direction of the car , basically if you stood under the center console , looking toward the front of the car..) , there was a small gap between what appeared to be the engine and tranny , and on the left hand side of the middle of the engine bay area , there was the "rear main seal" . it looked to have a grate style cover or protector that went about halfway up , then there was the leak all in that area... the only way i can describe it was like round expanded steel mesh ... sorta like that... maybe that helps figure it out...
so overview of ramble is this : is my rear main seal on the motor or trans , and do i need to pull the motor for this job or can i jack it up , drop the tranny (i really didnt think this was a good idea bc of other trannys ive dropped that i couldnt get hte cv shafts to "snap in" and scrapped those cars... so im leary about trans drops...) , do the main , lift it back in , align it , bolt it , and go on my way...
thanks guys
jay hova
while i was under the deck at valvo , the oil was coming from the left hand side of my motor , (from underneath , facing the forward direction of the car , basically if you stood under the center console , looking toward the front of the car..) , there was a small gap between what appeared to be the engine and tranny , and on the left hand side of the middle of the engine bay area , there was the "rear main seal" . it looked to have a grate style cover or protector that went about halfway up , then there was the leak all in that area... the only way i can describe it was like round expanded steel mesh ... sorta like that... maybe that helps figure it out...
so overview of ramble is this : is my rear main seal on the motor or trans , and do i need to pull the motor for this job or can i jack it up , drop the tranny (i really didnt think this was a good idea bc of other trannys ive dropped that i couldnt get hte cv shafts to "snap in" and scrapped those cars... so im leary about trans drops...) , do the main , lift it back in , align it , bolt it , and go on my way...
thanks guys
jay hova
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Professional
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Youngstown , ohio (muder capital per capita u.s. )
RE: 1st gen Sohc 2.0 $2600 waste? HEEELLLPP!!!
oh btw , i forgot to inform the crew on recent price updates from NAPA local (youngstown , ohio) ; they are as follows ...
Head gasket set (i indicated mls , but i am not 100% sure if the gentleman understood this : 146.99
Timing Belt : $65.88
Tensioner pulley (he also wasnt sure if i meant the timing belt tensioner or the regular belt tensioner , so i indicated most likely the timing belt tensioner) : must be ordered $37.99
Water Pump : 28.19
Rear main : $8.29
ngk coppers : $1.89 ea
i forgot to indicate that i have a bad oil pan gasket ... not a hude deal really in comparison to the other needs , as far a repairs go i suspect its as simple as most cars , unbolt , drop pan , clean surfaces , coat with manufacturer surface sealant (mopar spray gasket?) , apply new gasket , insert and hand-tighten bolts evenly , torque bolts to req'd specs as per snug or torque specs... correct?
other than that , my AC doesnt work , and i dont really use ac (its supposedly not easily convertible to r134a ) so i was thinking of removing this from my motor if i had to pull it... is it just a simple bolt on compressor / condeser / collecter setup that i could remove all parts with no major complications to my heating systems integrity?
thanks again 'gents
jay hova
--edit : so then the tranny drop would just be to get to the engine without yanking the motor? is this in theory easier than pulling and reinstalling a motor? as i said...trannys scare the yell outta meh....
cant thank you guys 'nuff....
Head gasket set (i indicated mls , but i am not 100% sure if the gentleman understood this : 146.99
Timing Belt : $65.88
Tensioner pulley (he also wasnt sure if i meant the timing belt tensioner or the regular belt tensioner , so i indicated most likely the timing belt tensioner) : must be ordered $37.99
Water Pump : 28.19
Rear main : $8.29
ngk coppers : $1.89 ea
i forgot to indicate that i have a bad oil pan gasket ... not a hude deal really in comparison to the other needs , as far a repairs go i suspect its as simple as most cars , unbolt , drop pan , clean surfaces , coat with manufacturer surface sealant (mopar spray gasket?) , apply new gasket , insert and hand-tighten bolts evenly , torque bolts to req'd specs as per snug or torque specs... correct?
other than that , my AC doesnt work , and i dont really use ac (its supposedly not easily convertible to r134a ) so i was thinking of removing this from my motor if i had to pull it... is it just a simple bolt on compressor / condeser / collecter setup that i could remove all parts with no major complications to my heating systems integrity?
thanks again 'gents
jay hova
--edit : so then the tranny drop would just be to get to the engine without yanking the motor? is this in theory easier than pulling and reinstalling a motor? as i said...trannys scare the yell outta meh....
cant thank you guys 'nuff....
Legend
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 9,112
Likes: 1
From: Spring, TX
RE: 1st gen Sohc 2.0 $2600 waste? HEEELLLPP!!!
You can get a Mopar timing belt for $40 from www.modernperformance.com.
Your A/C system is R134a. But if you want to remove it, then yes it's as easy as you indicated. I don't have A/C...and I live in TX
Dropping the tranny on the neon isn't very difficult at all. The hard part will be aligning it back up by yourself. If you have someone helping you out, then you should be fine.
Your A/C system is R134a. But if you want to remove it, then yes it's as easy as you indicated. I don't have A/C...and I live in TX
Dropping the tranny on the neon isn't very difficult at all. The hard part will be aligning it back up by yourself. If you have someone helping you out, then you should be fine.
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Professional
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Youngstown , ohio (muder capital per capita u.s. )
RE: 1st gen Sohc 2.0 $2600 waste? HEEELLLPP!!!
not to keep repeating , but thanks das ...
that said , im taking it that the tranny drop is simpler/quicker to do than the motor swap... a few more ?'s
to drop the tranny , will i need to remove the transaxles , torque converter , etc ...
i may have intermittant help with some steps of the procedure , but its not guarunteed , and with a broken hand , the less i have to beat on the better...
previous experice has shown me engines are not a fun thing to pull if you dont have to , so the tranny drop is piqued my noodle a bit...
i am going to check out my chiltons repair , and maybe go pick up a haynes real quick from A.Z. , and im going to definately check on moderperformace to see shipping estimates and the likelyhood that i may be able to get better prices than locally...
thanks guys... sorry if i seem scrambled...
jay hova
that said , im taking it that the tranny drop is simpler/quicker to do than the motor swap... a few more ?'s
to drop the tranny , will i need to remove the transaxles , torque converter , etc ...
i may have intermittant help with some steps of the procedure , but its not guarunteed , and with a broken hand , the less i have to beat on the better...
previous experice has shown me engines are not a fun thing to pull if you dont have to , so the tranny drop is piqued my noodle a bit...
i am going to check out my chiltons repair , and maybe go pick up a haynes real quick from A.Z. , and im going to definately check on moderperformace to see shipping estimates and the likelyhood that i may be able to get better prices than locally...
thanks guys... sorry if i seem scrambled...
jay hova
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 112
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From: Youngstown , ohio (muder capital per capita u.s. )
RE: 1st gen Sohc 2.0 $2600 waste? HEEELLLPP!!!
well i just called the gut at tuffy (where my car was for an estimate) , and asked him about my intermittent stalling , and if he could check my fuel rail ... he said that htey diagnosed that it ran pretty crappy , and a tune up was included in the 1600$ estimate... i assume this incluides plugs , and wires , and he also stated some vacuum lines were going to be replaced... go fig...
so now that i have a lot more info on the subject , i suspect that with HG/Main repair , im looking at roughly $350 or so in parts (maybe $400 including fluids and tune up stuffs) , a good 300 in tools (possibly again $400 due to a buffer for torque wrenches in both ft/lbs and inch/lbs , hoist rental (hopefully borrow) , and pulley puller (im htinking i might as well get one , in case someone locally needs a dodge head gasket) ... anything else i cant or havent taken into account would be great , either tool wise or parts wise ...
my next q is this , since im doing top end work , are the any under $200 improvements i should do while i have this thing open? (ie valves , springs , rods , etc?)
any monies i have leftover will be in a winter , or downtime add on fund for CAI , muffler , rims , etc...
paint is going to be scheduled for spring...
love you guys sooooo much (platonic , of course )
jay hova
::edit:: my vin is 1b3es22c8vd290XXX , the chilton i got from the library is 2000+ models (for reference since they didnt have 97 avail at the moment) , it says for that years (2000+) that "c' is 132 hp 2.0 sohc , and "f" is high output (150hp 2.0 sohc) ... is this available in the 97 model range as well? my 10th digit is an "8" so im guessing it would be the "c" before that... am i wrong?
so now that i have a lot more info on the subject , i suspect that with HG/Main repair , im looking at roughly $350 or so in parts (maybe $400 including fluids and tune up stuffs) , a good 300 in tools (possibly again $400 due to a buffer for torque wrenches in both ft/lbs and inch/lbs , hoist rental (hopefully borrow) , and pulley puller (im htinking i might as well get one , in case someone locally needs a dodge head gasket) ... anything else i cant or havent taken into account would be great , either tool wise or parts wise ...
my next q is this , since im doing top end work , are the any under $200 improvements i should do while i have this thing open? (ie valves , springs , rods , etc?)
any monies i have leftover will be in a winter , or downtime add on fund for CAI , muffler , rims , etc...
paint is going to be scheduled for spring...
love you guys sooooo much (platonic , of course )
jay hova
::edit:: my vin is 1b3es22c8vd290XXX , the chilton i got from the library is 2000+ models (for reference since they didnt have 97 avail at the moment) , it says for that years (2000+) that "c' is 132 hp 2.0 sohc , and "f" is high output (150hp 2.0 sohc) ... is this available in the 97 model range as well? my 10th digit is an "8" so im guessing it would be the "c" before that... am i wrong?
Legend
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 9,112
Likes: 1
From: Spring, TX
RE: 1st gen Sohc 2.0 $2600 waste? HEEELLLPP!!!
ORIGINAL: Youngstown97Sohc
my next q is this , since im doing top end work , are the any under $200 improvements i should do while i have this thing open? (ie valves , springs , rods , etc?)
my next q is this , since im doing top end work , are the any under $200 improvements i should do while i have this thing open? (ie valves , springs , rods , etc?)
It's basically the same engine as the 2000, but motor mounts and some sensors may be different. Not positive though. PM me with your email address and I can send you some very helpful info.
Legend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 9,284
Likes: 1
From: mendota, illinois
RE: 1st gen Sohc 2.0 $2600 waste? HEEELLLPP!!!
the rear main seal is on the negine, behind the torque convertor.....if you take off that little plate that you were talking about, then you would see the TC......when you pull out the trans(if you go that route), with the TC still connected to the trans, then you just have to remove the 8 flywheel bolts and there is the rear main seal......