tanx bunches spud...im pretty familiar with most suspension on fwd cars , so i pretty much know hoe to get half shafts outta the spindles (i nkow thats not the word for fwd cars , but its the only thing i can remember them by most of the time.... just to be 100% positive im going to go get a haynes tomorrow to save us both a little (or a lot) of hassle and possible frustration (and finger cramps).

the only other thing i am really unsure of now , is which to do first... but the haynes should help with that...

i was afraid there were snap rings inside the tranny...ph well

thanks spud...
hova

 

oh one quick q i forgot , i worked in a tire and service shop doing rims , so i nkow all about hubs... the castle nut and usualy large (most ive seen are around 30 32mm ) shaft retainer nuts are only removable with an impact socket and impact gun... i dont have a compressor , or impact... so are these larger nuts fairly simple to remove on the dodges...


thanks
hova

 

i just thought of something... i had the car for a day and there was a "transmission leak" on my valvo reciept that was later diagnosed as my rms , but the second day i had it i put in midgrade octane....this did in my 92 cavalier twice.... could it be that I blew up my hg by putting the 89 stuffs in her??

hova

 

1st: not sure about the gas thing
2nd: the snap rings indside the trans are not hard to get out by any means.....like i said, either give it a good yank, or just pry with a screwdriver
3rd: the hub nut can be removed without an impact, but it is a little more difficult..there are 2 ways of doing it, either way you need a large breaker bar

1st way: you need a large breaker bar and a flat piece of bar stock.....you jack up the car and take off the tire.....remove the nut cap, then set place the bar stock between a couple of the lug nut studs and wedge the other end on the ground....then use the breaker bar to take off the nut..(this way is a little more difficult since you have to be careful not to bend the lug nut studs)

2nd way: (this is the way i use if there isnt an impact available)...jack up the car and remove the tire and nut cover....then if you have rims with the large hub hole in the center, put the rim back on...if your rims dont have the large hole, then use the spare tire.....set the car back on the ground and use the breaker bar to loosen the nut....(if you need to, have sumone sit on the car on the side you are working on)...once its loose, jack up the car and take the tire back off....then remove the nut

3rd: i cant remember which mm socket is needed to remove the nut....i use a 1-1/16th deep well to get it off

 

well i have just added a breaker bar and a 6 foot lead pipe to the toolchest then.... i remember those nuts...

nuttier than squirrel turds...
hova

 

well i have become pretty eased by the upcoming operation... i have just read the tao... i have just found the tao...

i am still left with a few questions...
it has come to my attention , that upon further inspection (and speculation) ... im wondering if i might as well pull the engine instead of drop the trans... let me know if this theory is incorrect....

i can disconnect the tranny from the engine via the same simple process to drop the tranny , but i wouldnt have to remove the halfaxles and try to figure out a way to do that. by removing the engine , i should be able to leave my trans lines alone as well as put my motor on a stand , clean her up real nice , take the top end off , inspect my head , if i notice warping may have happened then i will be machining it flat (praying theres no cracks) ... it hasnt overheated , so i should be ok...
my other question is about the motor mounts... i havent really found any good pictures of the rear mount and i dont understand if by "bouncy" its mean to be like a strut which actually moves , or is it a dogbone type that is rigid cast with a poly bushing.

then do the hg job , rear main seal , and the oil pan gasket (along with tap a new bolt into the drain plug, mines stripped). then reassemble , insert into motor bay , connect to trans and motor mounts , begin installing the rest of the electronics , other parts , etc... im thinking of finding an aftermarket fuel rail if i can , but i was wondering if i owuld have to buy new injectors too... also looking at a wires and hoses dress up kit , and sand and paint my engine bay while i have the motor out... how much electonics crap is in the motor bay that has to be taped off and cant be removed ..i plan on taping the suspension components , and everything but the metal engine bay itself... i was thinking tan...

anyways im rambling so im going to see if theres anything else i need to put in , or re edit again..

anyways... the thought of trying to get those large nuts off had me remembering a couple cavs i have done... and trannys like that id rather disconnect and then re-align the flyweel and bolt it back up to the mounts... please inform me if i have miscalculated...

hova

 

ok you could just as easily remove the motor...if you dont wanna take out the half shafts...

if you have an automatic(which you do) then there is no rear motor mount.....there is just the front one, the passenger side, and the drivers trans mount.....


i personally think it would be easier to remove the trans....but if you wanna remove the motor then here it goes.....these are not in order, they are just steps that need to be done....

disconnect the engine harness plug at the pcm....disconnect the 2 exhaust bolts where the pipe bolts to the manifold....disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses....disconnect the power steering lines at the pump and at the clip by the alt. that hold them to the engine....unbolt the front and passenger motor mounts....disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body and the bracket that holds it to the engine.....disconnect the kickdown cable from the throttle body and the trans.....remove the little plate on the bottom of the engine.....unbolt the TQ from the flywheel.....remove battery tray.....disconnect the power distribution center and lay it out of the way....remove the coolant overflow tank....disconnect and unbolt the cooling fan(s) and remove it(them)....disconnect the trans lines from the radiator....remove the radiator.....there should be a brace on the back of the engine that connects to the trans, if so, remove it....disconnect the downstream 02 plug.....

im sure there are a few steps im missing...but this is the jist of it

 

tnax again spud...

if i had access to the tools (i might after all) , i will drop the trans , but i know how much torque is needed to get those sline nuts off .... and it usually aint pretty , so unless i have an impact capable of 150psi , i will be taking the extra steps and removing the motor... i was unaware the ranny lines run to the radiator (i know hy they do it tho) , i didnt think dodge would have that setup... other than that , im pretty content with the upcoming surgery , it will allow me to clean and paint whatever tickles my fancy , and i can test my engine before i put it back in the car... thats a huge plus... as well as being 6'4' , leaning over the neon for 18 or so hours , and crawling under her for at least 8 hours doesnt sound too fun , but its still not going to be easy...

thanks guys , i got court on monday that i forgot i had , so depending on fines and possible jail time , will be the deciding factor on my expendeture , and timeframe (if im free and not 100% broke)... i will be starting this moday hopefully , tuesday at the latest (it gets dark around 5 here now , and no heat in the garage worries me..)..

i had a question as to how warm the block should be when doing this job... is there reason enough to buy a jet heater , or can the hg and rms be done will no ill effects if the block is allowed to chill...


thanks
hova

 

i wish these forums had karma available... i was on a forum (overgrow.com) that allowed positive karma or negative karma depending on your post (if it was helpful +k , if its a flaming troll , -k...)... spud would be getting karma every day man...


hova

 

you can do the gaskets/seals cold.....ive done them in my garage before when it was about 10 degrees outside[&:]

if you end up removing the motor, then it makes the job easier if you just start taking crap off so you have more room...when i remove the motors i usually take off the power steering pump, PS resivoir, alternator, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, EGR, radiator, fans, battery/battery tray, vaccum lines, coolant lines, starter.....and whatever else you can find, while the motor is in the car.....then there is alot more room and space to move.....most stuff can be taken out of the car from above....so there isnt much under it....

a little tip: when removing the motor, do not remove the big bolt that hold the passenger motor mount to the engine......just remove the 2 bolts that hold the entire mount to the car......it helps because when you put the motor back in, then you dont have to worry about trying to line it back up...just set the motor in and it will use that mount as a stopper from goin any lower...then you can just pull it into place and bolt it in......if you can understand what im talking about, it helps alot