muffler question
I always say this in every muffler thread, if you put your fart can on there and decide its a little too loud or raspy, buy a 20$ glasspack and put it inline with clamps, they only last like 20k before they burn out, but if you clamp em you can change em out easily. They are straight through designs, but the best thing would be to go 1/2" bigger diameter than what you have now, its a bigger opening and if you do it closer to the cat while the exhaust is still hot, it gives it more room to expand, thus increasing exit velocity through the muffler, in a way reducing exhaust pressure.
Some people stand by glasspacks, others dont, I stand by them in the sense that any aftermarket exhaust system louder than stock should have one. Hell on my honda I ran straight pipe 2.5" catless 4-2-1 header system with 2 cherrybomb glasspacks, 1 where cat would be, and the other at the end where the muffler would be. Sounded nice as hell. 15k later though it started getting raspy and by the time I was at 20k it was in need of replacing. I wouldnt do 2.5" straight pipe again though, hondas arent up there for low end torque as it is, I could feel I dropped a little, but on my single cam motor at 5k it felt like vtec yo, but that was mostly because it felt a little slower under that, but 5-8k was nice, great highway passing power for a 130hp motor, city lacked a little, but it sounded fast *shrug* I wasnt a ricer though, and if I were to do straight pipe again id throw a resonator in there aswell, and keep it no more than 2.25"
blah blah blah just babbling here
Some people stand by glasspacks, others dont, I stand by them in the sense that any aftermarket exhaust system louder than stock should have one. Hell on my honda I ran straight pipe 2.5" catless 4-2-1 header system with 2 cherrybomb glasspacks, 1 where cat would be, and the other at the end where the muffler would be. Sounded nice as hell. 15k later though it started getting raspy and by the time I was at 20k it was in need of replacing. I wouldnt do 2.5" straight pipe again though, hondas arent up there for low end torque as it is, I could feel I dropped a little, but on my single cam motor at 5k it felt like vtec yo, but that was mostly because it felt a little slower under that, but 5-8k was nice, great highway passing power for a 130hp motor, city lacked a little, but it sounded fast *shrug* I wasnt a ricer though, and if I were to do straight pipe again id throw a resonator in there aswell, and keep it no more than 2.25"
blah blah blah just babbling here
and by 1/2" bigger than what you have I mean, you need to from, say 2.25" now to 2.75" glasspack, then back to 2.25" to the glasspack-back part of your exhaust. Its part of this exhaust theory thing that ive been studying, but the gasses WILL expand more in there, the closer to the head the better, but if you keep the cat, put it as close to that as possible, it also helps if you DO have a cat, because of the unburnt **** being burned IN the cat, you will have more gasses coming out, so if you give them time to expand, then speed them up going into a slightly smaller (yet well flowing diamater) pipe, your exit velocity WILL speed up, guaranteed. How it helps you depends on other mods, but youd probably see more gains when theres lots of gas going through there, but not like 6k+ kind of speeds, because the exhaust is already flowing quite fast with 6k worth of pressure building up. So I suppose 3-5k is where exhaust velocity will help you in this sence. But since we are talking about weak *** 4cyl neon motors, gains would be under 5hp for sure, as it just doesnt have enough exhaust exiting to make it worth while to gain some big numbers, it helps with sound for sure, and you will gain something
im assuming its all turbod up by now (havent been on DF for a while now, mostly hit up the org as its more active), but my info was to the OP, on what I can only assume is an otherwise stock motor he wants to put a fart can on. Im just trying to save him some embarassment when everyone looks at him because his car sounds like angry bees, the cherry bomb glasspacks are IMO the best bang for buck, they are cheap as hell and work great for atleast 15k
bored on the way to starbucks, this is with stock muffler, and a CAI
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...4952&hl=en
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...4952&hl=en
ORIGINAL: QuiK615
bored on the way to starbucks, this is with stock muffler, and a CAI
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...60414952&hl=en
bored on the way to starbucks, this is with stock muffler, and a CAI
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...60414952&hl=en
ORIGINAL: asbel
i plan on getting a new muffler. A Dynomax super turbo from my local advanced auto parts for 41$ and its the same diameter as the piping on my exhaust right now. i was wondering how i would go about changing it. since the pipes are the same size. i was just thinking a bendable exhaust pipe like a little bit bigger than the pipe. then just do 2 clamps on either side to hold it?
i plan on getting a new muffler. A Dynomax super turbo from my local advanced auto parts for 41$ and its the same diameter as the piping on my exhaust right now. i was wondering how i would go about changing it. since the pipes are the same size. i was just thinking a bendable exhaust pipe like a little bit bigger than the pipe. then just do 2 clamps on either side to hold it?
where did it say that he was thinking about putting a fart can on the car.....last i knew a dynomax was nothing close to a fart can muffler.....but hey, maybe i just dont know anything


