Fuel Problem I think
If thats a DOHC the IAT and the MAP sensor are one unit,Which would point me right toit with that codeand those symptoms
check into that
Might even look for broken or cut wires, cars sit, mice and squirrels like to make them their home and chew on things. Sitting for that long of time usually will dry rot the rubber diaphram in the MAP sensor and they wont work anymore. Thats my guess. unplug it & see if it runs. Mine will idle really rich with it unhooked.
check into that

Might even look for broken or cut wires, cars sit, mice and squirrels like to make them their home and chew on things. Sitting for that long of time usually will dry rot the rubber diaphram in the MAP sensor and they wont work anymore. Thats my guess. unplug it & see if it runs. Mine will idle really rich with it unhooked.
yeah definately check out the map sensor, but I thought if the sensor went bad, it would still run, it would just be sensing that theres either too much air or not enough and will either lean or rich out it, but it should still run once it get it going using starter fluid. Or gas w/e. But if you can keep spraying it in there it still sounds like a fuel problem, ie not getting enough, because if you were spraying it in there when its already too rich, it wouldnt make it any better.
Am I near the ballpark here or am I still downtown?
Am I near the ballpark here or am I still downtown?
In detroit the ballpark is downtown so i guess your close but anyways do you know if the injectors are good? Not cloged? maybe purge the lines till you get to the fresh fuel from the tank
Ok, I'm home now. Here's some more info for you.
Once we get it running, we can throttle it up and the engine smooths out, but after about 10 seconds, it starts dying down, and we need to give it a shot of gas to get the rpms up. We did unplug the map sensor(single overhead cam by the way), and the car didn't change too much. Maybe more towards the worse side. I did stumble across something though. If I unplug the vacuum line that's going to the underside of the electrical sensor right overtop of the egr valve, it helps. and if I unplug the vacuum line that comes from the brake booster, that goes to that same sensor, it stays running. The vacuum line on the other side of that sensor, goes to the egr valve.(total of three hoses, and one electrical connector) Not sure what that one is called.
So, the injectors are working because it smoothes out at a higher rpm, just won't start, idle, or stay running at that rpm for long. Something is telling the computer to lean out the fuel. We looked at the O2 sensor, and it was spiking up and down(pulsing) like it was supposed to. Just not sure what the correct voltage is supposed to be. It stayed around .06, and when it was dying, the voltage was going up to .1. Is that about right, or is it not getting enough voltage? Auto Engineuity lets me live monitor sensors like: MAP, TPS, Coolant, IAT, RPM, Short term fuel trim, long term fuel trim, advance timing, and I can watch the O2 voltage, and O2 fuel %. We could watch the MAP, and TPS moving, so I guess they were working. Also, we can monitor the IAT, and it was off. But my buddy said that it onlymakes small adjustments to the way the engine runs.
So there is more info, let me hear what you guys think now. I really appreciate the help. And I still need the meaning of those codes. Anybody have a good list of codes? I've got one that I keep for my 2001 Intrepid, but don't know if they are the same for a 96.
Thanks,
Michael
Once we get it running, we can throttle it up and the engine smooths out, but after about 10 seconds, it starts dying down, and we need to give it a shot of gas to get the rpms up. We did unplug the map sensor(single overhead cam by the way), and the car didn't change too much. Maybe more towards the worse side. I did stumble across something though. If I unplug the vacuum line that's going to the underside of the electrical sensor right overtop of the egr valve, it helps. and if I unplug the vacuum line that comes from the brake booster, that goes to that same sensor, it stays running. The vacuum line on the other side of that sensor, goes to the egr valve.(total of three hoses, and one electrical connector) Not sure what that one is called.
So, the injectors are working because it smoothes out at a higher rpm, just won't start, idle, or stay running at that rpm for long. Something is telling the computer to lean out the fuel. We looked at the O2 sensor, and it was spiking up and down(pulsing) like it was supposed to. Just not sure what the correct voltage is supposed to be. It stayed around .06, and when it was dying, the voltage was going up to .1. Is that about right, or is it not getting enough voltage? Auto Engineuity lets me live monitor sensors like: MAP, TPS, Coolant, IAT, RPM, Short term fuel trim, long term fuel trim, advance timing, and I can watch the O2 voltage, and O2 fuel %. We could watch the MAP, and TPS moving, so I guess they were working. Also, we can monitor the IAT, and it was off. But my buddy said that it onlymakes small adjustments to the way the engine runs.
So there is more info, let me hear what you guys think now. I really appreciate the help. And I still need the meaning of those codes. Anybody have a good list of codes? I've got one that I keep for my 2001 Intrepid, but don't know if they are the same for a 96.
Thanks,
Michael
I don't think that if it had jumped time, that it would smooth out mid throttle. It's a fuel delivery problem. It's not getting enough. But what is telling the computer to lean out the fuel? It has 50 psi at the fuel rail.
If the IAT says its 300 degrees incoming air temp it wont help it run right at all.
Once it throws a code it should ignore that sensor though.
TPS maybe gone bad? or does it change with the throttle like its supposed to.
they will smooth out at higher RPM when theyre out of time and just not want to idle but usually its running really rich and huffin black smoke. Plus you might end up with a code 11, but not always if it relearned itself with it out of time to begin with. Ohm the injectors and see what you get.
If your unplugging vaccum lines and it stays running your letting in more air, which means its gotta be running rich, not lean. Is it smokin like hell when you rev it up? i'd still lean towards the MAP sensor or timing being off. Or bad plugs / weak spark.
Once it throws a code it should ignore that sensor though.
TPS maybe gone bad? or does it change with the throttle like its supposed to.
they will smooth out at higher RPM when theyre out of time and just not want to idle but usually its running really rich and huffin black smoke. Plus you might end up with a code 11, but not always if it relearned itself with it out of time to begin with. Ohm the injectors and see what you get.
If your unplugging vaccum lines and it stays running your letting in more air, which means its gotta be running rich, not lean. Is it smokin like hell when you rev it up? i'd still lean towards the MAP sensor or timing being off. Or bad plugs / weak spark.



