Swedish 1986 D250
#11
#12
if not i like wontacceptthis's idea. i got auxiliary backup lights on both my trucks and they work great. if i had to choose between my stock and auxiliary backup lights i would choose the auxiliary ones every time. they work very good.
#13
That's a very good idea! The backup lights suck anyway and I've been thinking about putting bigger ones on.
We have a rule about imported vehicles which give you some slack regarding lighting (and when it comes to cars pre -74 almost no rules apply). But my truck isn't imported in this regard as it was sold in Sweden as new in 1986.
Had it been imported yesterday it would have been easier. And if I had been living in the US (or wherever) for a year or more and then moved back home I could have gotten away with a Packard Merlin bolted to the bed - as long as it was approved in the country I moved from (like a grandfathers right in a way).
We have a rule about imported vehicles which give you some slack regarding lighting (and when it comes to cars pre -74 almost no rules apply). But my truck isn't imported in this regard as it was sold in Sweden as new in 1986.
Had it been imported yesterday it would have been easier. And if I had been living in the US (or wherever) for a year or more and then moved back home I could have gotten away with a Packard Merlin bolted to the bed - as long as it was approved in the country I moved from (like a grandfathers right in a way).
#15
Fired up the truck today.
Good news, headers aren't leaking (as I kinda suspected they would). Also, the hole I made in the head - because I'm an idiot - was successfully plugged and sealed with a thread sealant called 8875-Thin from Deacon. I highly recommend it for high temp applications, it's good for 1500 degrees F.
It is however loud as hell. I hoped it would be somewhat decent but I'm nowhere close. From the outside it's manageable (sounds potent), in the cab it's a different story and the drone is far from nice - the roof is vibrating.
I need to loose the sidepipe and run the pipe all the way back in the stock routing. That should hopefully be enough.
Good news, headers aren't leaking (as I kinda suspected they would). Also, the hole I made in the head - because I'm an idiot - was successfully plugged and sealed with a thread sealant called 8875-Thin from Deacon. I highly recommend it for high temp applications, it's good for 1500 degrees F.
It is however loud as hell. I hoped it would be somewhat decent but I'm nowhere close. From the outside it's manageable (sounds potent), in the cab it's a different story and the drone is far from nice - the roof is vibrating.
I need to loose the sidepipe and run the pipe all the way back in the stock routing. That should hopefully be enough.
#16
#18
The glass packs are pretty long, around 20" at least. I'll get some picture host and post pics. I think the first option is to run the plumbing in the stock routing but keeping the 4". It's hipo loud from the outside, it's just the drone inside the cab that's annoys me.
I cleaned up the tail yesterday by putting the turn indicators on the backup lights. Looks much better, I'm only bugged by the fact that I didn't think of it myself.
I've also cleaned the entire underside of the car (exactly as much fun as it sounds) and rust protected it. What was left of the old protection was cracked and dry and did little else than allow for water to seep in and chew on my steel. It's all heavy metal though, it can't be too common with critical failures of our trucks because of rust. The only things that looks that they might break due to rust are the upper a-arms, especially the rearward part (despite the extra metal).
I cleaned up the tail yesterday by putting the turn indicators on the backup lights. Looks much better, I'm only bugged by the fact that I didn't think of it myself.
I've also cleaned the entire underside of the car (exactly as much fun as it sounds) and rust protected it. What was left of the old protection was cracked and dry and did little else than allow for water to seep in and chew on my steel. It's all heavy metal though, it can't be too common with critical failures of our trucks because of rust. The only things that looks that they might break due to rust are the upper a-arms, especially the rearward part (despite the extra metal).
#20
This is how my drone special looks like
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps227b77cf.jpg
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...psfc372285.jpg
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...pse8ca82ae.jpg
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps227b77cf.jpg
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...psfc372285.jpg
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...pse8ca82ae.jpg