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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 01:53 PM
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Default I’m back!

Hey there, friends old and new. I'm BACK! I sold my old D250 in ~2013, and missed it ever since. I've had quite a few vehicles since then, but none ever scratched the same itch. I even kept my service manuals and some spare parts, since I knew I wasn't done.

Fast forward to today, and I'm once again the owner of a first gen dodge. This time its a short bed 1981 D150 with a 360 . . . in the bed . . . there's a running and driving 225 / 904 combo in the truck. Plans include catching up on a few years of maintenance, finding an A833OD, and an axle flip and van LCAs. For now, I'm just glad to be on the forum again!


 
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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 10:18 PM
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Default Welcome Back!

I’m pretty new, and I basically browse when I’m working on info for my truck. But your plans sound fun to follow along with! Good Luck
 
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Old Jan 11, 2021 | 10:41 PM
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Default Tail lights and transmissions

I found a small block a833od, pedals, gauge cluster, and column for sale locally. I’ll be picking that up this weekend. Hopefully the 360 will be going in sooner than later.

I also found some time after work to re-wire some shoddy connections for the tail-lights, and got them all working. This poor truck misfires REALLY badly when it’s cold. Sounds neat. Runs bad. I’m not sure how much effort I’ll be putting into chasing that down now that a transmission is headed my way.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2021 | 02:22 PM
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That’s awesome! Does it look like you’ll have to go through it majorly, or just a clean up and toss in?

I’m currently waiting on some NOS ignition and distributor bits to show up in the mail.

figured out my truck got a half *** ESA delete at some point in its life. It has a single pick up distributor being ran by the partially wired spark advance computer in the fender (which based on the trucks symptom history is failed and in limp mode)

crunched part numbers and found out what is SUPPOSED to be in it, and how to test/repair what I can’t buy. Then to get it running as it would have bone stock with current maintenance requirements so I can base line it then see if/what to mod.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2021 | 06:44 AM
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Default It spins

I’m hoping I’ll be able to just put new gaskets on the 360 and put it in. I was only able to turn the crank 1/8 turn, until I realized the flexplate was hitting the tire the engine is perched on.

I haven’t really delved into the under hood wiring yet. I had TBI on my last truck, so lean burn is pretty foreign to me.

Here’s what I do know: the spark control computer is still present in the air cleaner housing. The module under the wiper motor is still connected. It misfires when cold but runs fine warm. Also, there’s an additional mess of wires and vacuum lines used by a broken aftermarket cruise control.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2021 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by wontacceptthis
I’m hoping I’ll be able to just put new gaskets on the 360 and put it in. I was only able to turn the crank 1/8 turn, until I realized the flexplate was hitting the tire the engine is perched on.

I haven’t really delved into the under hood wiring yet. I had TBI on my last truck, so lean burn is pretty foreign to me.

Here’s what I do know: the spark control computer is still present in the air cleaner housing. The module under the wiper motor is still connected. It misfires when cold but runs fine warm. Also, there’s an additional mess of wires and vacuum lines used by a broken aftermarket cruise control.

You still have the Lean Burn computer which sucked when new and I'm sure age hasn't helped. Swap it over to good old electronic ignition and the engine will almost assuredly run better. Most of the parts (brain box, distributor, even the ballast resistor) are available at parts stores. The wire harness that plugs into the brain box is the only part you may need to get from the bone yard. Mopar Performance used to sell them and I bought several when I heard they were being discontinued.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2021 | 03:20 PM
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you went somewhere? lol welcome back. ya don't even waste any time with lean burn system. just convert it to electronic ignition and never look back.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2021 | 09:13 AM
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I’ve done a lot of reading lately on the spark computer systems, and if you wanted just this basic ignition pages for your engine I can post the electrical diagram pages of the 86 non ESA and ESA wiring diagrams to see if they help you out any? Let me know.

with some time and reading I was able to figure out what my specific equipment should be, confirmed I have a light duty 318 2bbl set up without dual pickup distributor. And how to troubleshoot the ESA computer.

Basically, find and fix all my vacuum leaks, replace engine and chassis grounds, rebuild my distributor, then multimeter the ESA connectors per testing procedures and replace if bad.

I essentially am doing 20 years of maintenance, testing/ replacing/rebuilding components so I know all sensors are working and that things are in there working OE configuration running how it should. Then I’ll start making whatever changes it needs in order to run better if it can. Then starts paint and body.
 

Last edited by Polye86_RoyalSE; Jan 15, 2021 at 09:18 AM.
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Old Jan 27, 2021 | 09:33 PM
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Minor update for today. Since my last post, I've rewired the tail-lights, removed the vestiges of a weird 3-piece hitch, replaced the rear brakes and parking cables, and stripped a few courses of wiring that must have been for driving lights and some other accessories.

In the next few days, I'll change the front brakes and wheel bearings. After a new headlight bezel / turn signal lens arrives, it should be ready for PA inspection. After that, the real fun begins. I have all of the major parts to lower it waiting until after its inspected and usable. I'm also hoping to fire up the 360 soon, as I've been collecting parts for that as well.

I wanted to take the opportunity to showcase some scary 1980s technology as well. Pictured is the aftermarket cruise control system, complete with not one, but two lamp pull-chains.







 
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Old Jan 27, 2021 | 10:53 PM
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lol. that definitely seems pretty sketchy but if it works i would maybe consider leaving it. also i wouldn't replace the wheel bearings unless needed. most of the time the wheel bearing on the thing are likely better quality than what you would likely buy at the store
 
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