HElP Desperatly needed
Took off relays to find if relay was coming from somewhere else and then getting to relays, id din't pay attention to bulletin because it talks about replacing the wiring harness not the actual sensor. And aren't service buletins usually dealing with new cars, i'm sure it wouldn't show up 15 years later. I know that electronics are sensitive but this just started one morning, it didn't slowly get this way and the weather didn't change from what it was before. Battery is reading right at 12 volts, cables ends on battery are chewed up but got good connection and are not corroded. I can't find a positive cable for my truck because it has two other wires coming from it and both are not just cables they have plugs-ins on them. Pump does shut off after a couple of seconds after key is on and i checked all codes got one on speed sensor(speedometer was acting up,not working often) replaced and works find now. Also got one about not recieving O2 sensor pulses, found it unplugged and replaced anyway. Other than those two no others showed up. I did all of the code checkingbefore this problem and replaced theO2 while it was acting up, didn't helpany.Wouldn't it not run right if the cam or crank sensor were off or bad?
Took off relays to find if relay was coming from somewhere else and then getting to relays, id din't pay attention to bulletin because it talks about replacing the wiring harness not the actual sensor. And aren't service buletins usually dealing with new cars, i'm sure it wouldn't show up 15 years later.
Here you go assuming again. Any of the connectors can go bad over time and yes this may be a problem on a 15 year old truck. the Service Bulletins are made to make you think and can lead to the problem even if it's not directly spelled out in the bulletin. You have to check all things out. If you won't pay attention to what is presented to you, we cant fix the problem. If you look at Mopar diagnostics it tells the Tech to check out all applicable Service Bulletins when performing diagnostics.
I know that electronics are sensitive but this just started one morning, it didn't slowly get this way and the weather didn't change from what it was before.
Your logic is too narrow minded, whether it just started today or was a problem for10 years the electronics can cause a problem. You have to have an open mind to shoot these bugs! You start from point A and work to point Z...you don't start at point H and hope for a miracle.
Battery is reading right at 12 volts, cables ends on battery are chewed up but got good connection and are not corroded. I can't find a positive cable for my truck because it has two other wires coming from it and both are not just cables they have plugs-ins on them.
You'll have to get the cable from Mopar, you mya find the cable cheaper at places like www.makeitmopar.com which give 25% off list price.
Pump does shut off after a couple of seconds after key is on and i checked all codes got one on speed sensor(speedometer was acting up,not working often) replaced and works find now. Also got one about not recieving O2 sensor pulses, found it unplugged and replaced anyway. Other than those two no others showed up. I did all of the code checkingbefore this problem and replaced theO2 while it was acting up, didn't helpany.
With the pump turning on and off, this should mean that the ASD relay and the computer are ok...at least for this function. The pump may still be bad, it must provide proper pressure and volume. Have you checked the fuel pressure? All good mechanics repair the problems that show up as error codes before they do anything else.
Wouldn't it not run right if the cam or crank sensor were off or bad?
It might, but if it's heat sensitive or suffering from EOS...Electrical Overstress or old age/cold solder joint,it could be intermittent.
Remove the negative battery cable for 5 minutes to clear codes and then re-install. Check the codes againafter the truck fails to start and see if a Code 11 appears.
You need to answer the other questions/suggestions that I posted earlier.
Here you go assuming again. Any of the connectors can go bad over time and yes this may be a problem on a 15 year old truck. the Service Bulletins are made to make you think and can lead to the problem even if it's not directly spelled out in the bulletin. You have to check all things out. If you won't pay attention to what is presented to you, we cant fix the problem. If you look at Mopar diagnostics it tells the Tech to check out all applicable Service Bulletins when performing diagnostics.
I know that electronics are sensitive but this just started one morning, it didn't slowly get this way and the weather didn't change from what it was before.
Your logic is too narrow minded, whether it just started today or was a problem for10 years the electronics can cause a problem. You have to have an open mind to shoot these bugs! You start from point A and work to point Z...you don't start at point H and hope for a miracle.
Battery is reading right at 12 volts, cables ends on battery are chewed up but got good connection and are not corroded. I can't find a positive cable for my truck because it has two other wires coming from it and both are not just cables they have plugs-ins on them.
You'll have to get the cable from Mopar, you mya find the cable cheaper at places like www.makeitmopar.com which give 25% off list price.
Pump does shut off after a couple of seconds after key is on and i checked all codes got one on speed sensor(speedometer was acting up,not working often) replaced and works find now. Also got one about not recieving O2 sensor pulses, found it unplugged and replaced anyway. Other than those two no others showed up. I did all of the code checkingbefore this problem and replaced theO2 while it was acting up, didn't helpany.
With the pump turning on and off, this should mean that the ASD relay and the computer are ok...at least for this function. The pump may still be bad, it must provide proper pressure and volume. Have you checked the fuel pressure? All good mechanics repair the problems that show up as error codes before they do anything else.
Wouldn't it not run right if the cam or crank sensor were off or bad?
It might, but if it's heat sensitive or suffering from EOS...Electrical Overstress or old age/cold solder joint,it could be intermittent.
Remove the negative battery cable for 5 minutes to clear codes and then re-install. Check the codes againafter the truck fails to start and see if a Code 11 appears.
You need to answer the other questions/suggestions that I posted earlier.
Would my dealership be able to get the cable? If so woudl they need to see it or could they just type it in and find it? So this would do it, you don't have to start and run it to get codes? Could I just try to start it and then check codes, instead of removing the cable, the negative looks like it would fall apart if i disconected it. Itisn't corroded just looks like it cracked. My grandpa knows some guys a few miles from here that have a computer they can hook to your vehicle and check it. But i don't htink my truck can be hooked to it. His is a 1996 F150 and it told him a spark plug wire wasn't connected. He couldn't figure out what was making his truck run crazy, computer was going carzy and finally died. Could i hook it to this computer and find my problem? Cost is no issue because my grandpa can get it for free.
Just tried to run codes but like i said first the engine light doesn't come on when you turn the key on it comes on once the relyas start ticking. It use to be really bad like the blinking would be really harsh. But lately it has beenlike the light is on but something is blinking behind it. Well anyway i let it tick and then try to start it, it started right up, let it run a little. Then when i went to check codes no codes blinkedAT ALL. After you go on, off, on, off, on the light fades out andthen nothing. NO blinking or nothing.



