Here is some back story, its a 1992 dodge ram 318 4x4 (w150) with 190,xxx mileson it.My water pump was leaking; I replaced that and also installed an electric fan because I hate clutch fans with a passion.

Well while working on the truck a buddy of mine sprayed some intake cleaner down into the throttle body because it looked horrible. Well we finished orking on it, had a rough start (from teh cleaner sitting Im sure) and then a check engine light came on.

The truck idles steady but the idle is up at about 1000 rpm then drops down for a few seconds (about2-3 sec) then goes back up. The truck also would not start without giving it gas and cranking for a few seconds. Also when driving it would hold the idle high for a few seconds (5 maybe?) then drop down and start doing its regular idle issue. Then when I take off (manual) it would bog like it was getting flooded out some and small puff of smoke with the smell of gas.

I thought about it, replaced the STOCK oxygen sensor. That didnt work so I replaced the idle control module (thinking its not idling this could be it and maybe the cleaner got to it) Well now mytruck idles better, still not as smooth as it did when i bought it a month ago, but better. Now it just is a pain in the *** to start when it is chilly outside and will try to stall. Also when it is hot starting is a pain in the ***.

Im thinking its the air intake tempsensor

 

What was the cause of the check engine light, and did you fix it? I'm not sure if your computer holds both long and short term settings as does the newer computers, but it might be that it will take time to "learn" the new sensors. On newer models, the long term can be errased via an a tool or by disconnecting the battery for about 15 min. Just make sure to get any codes before you dump the memory.

 

I havent been able to sca it yet. I went to autozone but the idiot there said he cant scan it (only had an OBDII tool) I a going to go to the dodge dealer I guess. was just hoping I could narrow it down.
I tried resetting it a few times by disconnecting the battery and also turning the key on for a few seconds until the CEL went off. It came right back on...

 

Yea, the current standard is OBDII (but it's about to change again). If you plan to keep the truck, you could purchace a tool. For a 92, Chrysler used the SBEC (Single Board Engine Controller) with either a six pin LH connector (a small blue rectangular connector located below the dashboard to the right of the steering colum) or 6 pin SCI conector in the engine compartment. See this link for an example of what you would need (also note the LH and SCI cable is not included and must be purchaced seperatly , there is a link on the left side of the page).
http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16150

I think the key cycle trick works with your truck though. Turn from off to run three times and on the fourth, leve it in run (BTW, not start). The CEL will flash with long and short pulses, giving 2 digit numbers.

As for a reset, the battery must be disconnected for at least 10 (I go with around 1/2 an hour to be safe)min.

Good luck

 

BTW, this site has better prices and more purchace options, I only used the manufacture site for ease.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW2.html

 

Check with key, cause dodge dealer will screw you. Insert key turn on, off, on, off, on then the light will blink. It will blink first number then pause along time and then blink second number of code. Like 1 blink long pause then 2 blinks is 12. 5 then long pause and then 5 more is 55. And unless your computer is screwed like mine it should work.

 

I jut got all kinds of blinking when I did the key trick. Welll... I had a 1,2,2,5,2,2,3,2,2,3,5 dont know what that means... I am disconnecting the battery for a while and Im going to see how that works, then try and do the key trick again. I have disconnected many sensors without letting it sit for a while with the battery disconnected

 

25 test Throttle position sensor
22 test coolant sensor
32 possible air/fuel ration imbalance not detected during diagnosis, open or shorted EGR solenoid
23 indicates air temperature sensor input is below minimum or above maximum accepted voltage
12 and 55 are always there

 

sweet... Thanks. I also checked the resistance on the air charge temp sensor. I had OL reading... I had that when it was hot, when it was cold and when it was semi warm. I am about to check my newly learned check. The battery has been disconnected for a while.

 

Ok after the reset I got 12, 22, 25, 55 and the truck started much better this time and didnt try to stall after I cranked it like it has been.

Thank you guys again. If you are ever in Colorado Springs let me know. Beers on the house!