Do they make spindles for road vehicles too, or just for race suspension?

 

Race parts are usually stronger and lighter than road parts, theres no reason you couldn't use them. You might have to mount your own disc brake brackets,I know GM brackets areavailable.
I have not contacted them about building Dodge spindles, but when I'm ready, if another solution has not been found, I will.
We'll need to know all the dimensions and specs to do it.
I don't know how much GM spindles are different from Dodge.
I still would like to know how much different the Dakota spindles are. There are ways to "adjust" the steering for spindle differences.
Racers use a variety of parts to make everything work, for instance Pinto spindles are very popular with Granada rotors, and GM control arms and steering. So a spindle thats close will work.

 

Great thread, I want to know more about lowering my 1985 D150

 

will the parts at truckinsuspension also work on my 89 dodge d100, everything is listed for a d150 and if i buy it i want to make sure it will fit.

thanks for the help.

 

Everything I looked at at truckinsuspension has a year label with it. Different items for different years, so I would say yes, just make sure you order the right part. Basically, the part number tells you what year it fits.... Like the hangers for example (han do7893) han= hangers, do= dodge 7893= 1978-1993

I looked at hangers, shackels, springs, a rollpan,and dakota spindles for a total of $575.... Nearly what I paid for the truck!! But hey, I got a good deal. I understand that there needs to be a tie rod modificatiuon on the 97-90 dakot a drop spindles, but I have yet to gather more information. I wonder if you could get dakota tie rod ends and use them on the D150 rack so no mods were necessary.

 

Search for this stuff on ramchargercentral. There is like 20 pages of this exact discussion.

 

Their search feature doesn't work for poop. I typed in dodge and it gave me nothing.

 

Heres the link; http://ramchargercentral.com/boards/...hp?topic=260.0

 

A good friend of mine was into hotrodding when it all got started. Back when they had to build or modify everything themselves, and we've had several discussions on doing this. Heres what we came up with.
On my truck, if the rear leafs were straight, rather than arched, it would drop about 4". You can buy any style leaf you want, you just need the measurements. The 4X4 front springs are straight.
BUT, if you're cheap like me, you leave the main alone, flip the 2nd leaf over and put it on top, that forces the main to flatten out. You may need to experiment and use the 3rd leaf also, depending on how much you want to go. You also cut the 2nd and/or the 3rd leaf about 4"-6" behind the u-bolt to allow flex and smooth the ride. You need the full length in front to prevent spring wrap up, and wheel hop. Check pinion angles, you might need the wedges.
That'll drop the rear.
In front cut the coil spring, start with 1/2 a coil until you get the right amount of drop. Also remove the bump stop brackets.
The main problem with cutting coils is you lose spring rate, so a better fix would be drop springs, and at $90 they're cheap.
I plan to do this when it gets warmer.

 

I'm fixin' to take a shot at the Dakota spindles and swapping in the rack and pinion also. According to the r/c post, the brakes/rotors interchange,some debate on wheel brgs.Mighthave to machine some longer tie rod adjusters. My truck started life as a stripper slant 6, now a 440, and the manual box and spanish galleon sizedsteering wheelare way slow if it getsloose. It's near impossible to crank it fast enough to stay on top of it. Should be a vast improvement if I can get around the headers and oil pump with the steering shaft. I'll post some pics when I get started on it.