So i did something against my better judgement andtook my truck on a long distance highway run to move my girlfriend back home from school.

At about 120km on a 4 lane stretch in the second last lane it started coughing, sputtered, and failed.

I pull over, check this and that, nothing seems the matter, fire it back up. Idles fine. I can hear the injectors going, see gas, all is well.
Get it and try to take off, but again stalls.

so 45 minutes and 300 dollars later the tow truck drops me off at home and I check the codes. To boot, the car is currently running just fine, ive had it in park with the hammer down and no issues.

12 - Battery has been disconnected (i had done some work earlier)
33 - A/C relay circuit (I dont have A/C, probably related to the above code)
51 - O2 sensor bad, lean mixture. (Aha! this is the culprit)

But my problem is that doesnt the computer go intoa "protective" mode when the 02 fails to stop this exact sort of problem? And how ocme it runs ok now? My dad says that the computer might get wonky when the engine bay temperatures get very high - like at highway speed. any thoughts?

 

i think you experienced a good ole fashioned vapor lock.the engine bay got pretty warm and the heat mixed withcool gas and created a vapor lock in the fuel line ..i have had that happen on several dodges ive owned...i would put in some gas treatment and rock on.

 

maybe that is what happened. Id be super pissed since i wasted money on a two, but happy since its less workif that is all it was, but i dont think it is.

Ichecked the o2 sensor since it did flash that error, and lo and behold the thing was reading something like 10-13 volts at closed loop instead of the proper.1 to .9 or watever.

Ive been trying to get the damned thing out since then and i gotta say im really discouraged. I know these thingscan behard to get out. But frankly I cant even get a wrench on this sucker and even if i could Im still not sure what size it is (i was thinking 7/8, but i think thats to big. the next size down is too small, and my wrench set has no 19,20, or 21 mm if its metric and it isnt 18).
No matter how i approach itthe wrench is blocked by the mainfold, frame, engine mount, or watever. And plus the actual hexhead of the sensor has this idiotically placed lip which more or less blocks you from getting anyhold onit.

Its late now and ive had enough. I dont know how im gonna get this bloody thing out. Im so pissed i shoulda scratched the VIN off the damned thing and taken a cab home rather than hand the tow truck guy 300 bucks to deliver scrap metal to my driveway. I love my truck but god dmaned its causing me greif.

so im hoping somebody whose changed theo2 sensorbefore hassome ideas for me. Is it a normally hard job made extra hard on these trucks or is that just me? hopefully im missing something obvious.


oh by the way, I was crawling around and i found that my truck has a block heater. some idiot cut the plug and left the end all frayed (looks accidental) but its there. Were block heaters stock on these badboys or facotry options or is this aftermarket?

 

Block heaters were a factory option.

 

have you tried a oxygen sensor socket???

 

A great idea for sure, though you'll probably only use it a couple of times I think an O2 sensor socket is worth the little bit it costs...

Here's one:
http://toolsandmore.us/index.asp?Pag...amp;ProdID=238

Also, if the sensor is really stubborn, don't be afrait to take a mallet to your wrench to break it loose.

 

ive got one of those sockets. oddly enough, itfails to do its job simply because it isnt deep enough, and it has worked on another car of mine butthis one is just stubborn.

The main issue isnt so much getting a hold of the hex with a wrench. I can get the open end around it, but there just isnt any space to actually turn it. The little space for movement which there is gets taken up just by the wrench bending. maybe ill look for a deeper socket. I dunno why im having such a hard time here. I mean, other people have changed this thing right? But honestly, I dont know how. even if they did get a socket on there i dont get how theyd have any space to turn it...

driving me nuts. The shop wants 90 for the part (insane since i founda BOSCH oneonline for 55, and a super cheapo no-name for 35) and 80 for install. I guess the install price isnt so bad. Still driving me insnae that i can even get a grip and remove what i basically one bolt with a sensor on the end.
thanks for th esuggestions though hopefull they make extra deep ones.

 

Nemesis,
I don't know if you got it out yet ,but here is an idea.I changed the O'2 in my truck while i had my tranny out.My truck is a 4x4 so I had no room either.Since the driveshaft was right there also.I advise you to either start the truck ,and let it run a few minutes to heat up the pipe,or get a torch and apply some heat to the bung were the sensor screws in.I forget witch size wrench was the correct one.You will want to use a 6 point wrench to keep from stripping it round.I would cut off the wire at the sensor that way you can fet the closed end off the wrench on it.Another option is to get a set of heavy duty crows foot line sockets.(Snap -on,Not sure if Craftsman has them though)That way you can get on it then turn it from down below.Just make sure you don't use a regular crow foot socket.I have used them before to do this.you definetly want to heat up the pipe to help free up the threads through expansion.If you don't you will pull the threads right out when you do get it backed out.
Good luck
Aaron Smith

 

thanks again guys. Ill be sure to apply heat, ill post some pictures if i can finda reasonable way to get it out. Im re-motivated. one last push tonight, and if no go, then im taking her to the shop to do it.

 

I would not go with the elcheapo,there is a difference in quality and operation.
Don,t forget to antiseeze the new one.