Just uploaded some photos to an album
ive seen this guy's page before. He makes it all seem so easy, but spraying your car in your driveway is a B---. Dont let me discourage you, though, it just irritates me that "Neil" thinks it can be done so quickly and affordably.
It also bothered me that he knocks the 50 dollar paint job. I just finished half of my rambler and polished it to get a better shine than any urethane ive shot (although im not a pro). And i only sanded once before applying the paint (very quickly), once after about 4 coats, and then again after 4 more coats. You have to sand a bit even if you spray. And when you do the 50 dollar roll job you dont have to mask the world off, worry about overspray, the GARUANTEED problems of drips, runs, heavy spots, and dust blowing into it etc. And to be honest the job cost me more then 50 bucks. I spent 35 on the paint, 10 on 10 dollar store rollers, a few bucks on paint trays, 7 on mineral spirits, and maybe ill guess about 30 on sand paper (400 grit, 1000 grit, and 2000 grit). Then you need 10 bucks on polishing compound, wax, and the price assumes youve got a buffer. So lets say a realistic price is 100 bucks - plus a decent buffer. I still prefer this method over spraying
BUT
theres no reason why its impossibel to spray a car in your driveway (it has obviously been done before). I just think that with spraying it is expensive, and any number of things can go horribly wrong (ever spray a car, stand back to admire it, go in for a beer and come back out to see the whole thing a drippy mess with grass in it?). The roll job looks great, costs nothing, and is impossible to mess up
It also bothered me that he knocks the 50 dollar paint job. I just finished half of my rambler and polished it to get a better shine than any urethane ive shot (although im not a pro). And i only sanded once before applying the paint (very quickly), once after about 4 coats, and then again after 4 more coats. You have to sand a bit even if you spray. And when you do the 50 dollar roll job you dont have to mask the world off, worry about overspray, the GARUANTEED problems of drips, runs, heavy spots, and dust blowing into it etc. And to be honest the job cost me more then 50 bucks. I spent 35 on the paint, 10 on 10 dollar store rollers, a few bucks on paint trays, 7 on mineral spirits, and maybe ill guess about 30 on sand paper (400 grit, 1000 grit, and 2000 grit). Then you need 10 bucks on polishing compound, wax, and the price assumes youve got a buffer. So lets say a realistic price is 100 bucks - plus a decent buffer. I still prefer this method over spraying
BUT
theres no reason why its impossibel to spray a car in your driveway (it has obviously been done before). I just think that with spraying it is expensive, and any number of things can go horribly wrong (ever spray a car, stand back to admire it, go in for a beer and come back out to see the whole thing a drippy mess with grass in it?). The roll job looks great, costs nothing, and is impossible to mess up
which method? the sprayed or the rolled?
you dont nessesarily want my advice - since im really not that good.
this one is sprayed

this one is also sprayed...BUT i didnt want to shoot the rest and ive roled over that job with tremclad.
http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/g...t=DCP_1346.jpg
Anyhow. I went out and bought an HVLP gun from Princess Auto which is a piece of garbage but it was all i could afford (100 bucks i think). Then i went to a paint supply store and bought a Urethane 3 part single stage (which means colour/thinner/hardener and no clear coat) mistint that was reasonably close to what i wanted and mistints are cheaper. i dont really remember, but i think the gallon (which i did not use entirely) was about 80 bucks. then 20 for hardner and 20 for reducer. I primed with a half decent rattle can primer sold in a body shop - 40 bucks or so there (people say absolutely not to do this - but i had that paint on for 3 years and no chipping or peeling). Then sanded with 400 or something. Sprayed a light coat, and then another and it looked like garbage. So i played aorund with the settings. went for a slightly oval shape that was a bit heavier in the center so that with a .5 inch overlap between shots it all evened out. wet sanded again. Resprayed. Still getting orange peel. thinned the paint, resprayed at 50-60 psi, and it dripped all over. Wiped it off with reducer. and shot two more coats which were so-so, a bit orange peely, but this blazer IS orange so i called it a night.
Now including prep work and mistakes, spraying this truck took me 3 afternoons. After about 7 days im still finishing off my Rambler roll job. But the job is nicer, theres less mess, and its cheaper. you make the call.
we really do need a paint expert on this forum.
you dont nessesarily want my advice - since im really not that good.
this one is sprayed

this one is also sprayed...BUT i didnt want to shoot the rest and ive roled over that job with tremclad.
http://s244.photobucket.com/albums/g...t=DCP_1346.jpg
Anyhow. I went out and bought an HVLP gun from Princess Auto which is a piece of garbage but it was all i could afford (100 bucks i think). Then i went to a paint supply store and bought a Urethane 3 part single stage (which means colour/thinner/hardener and no clear coat) mistint that was reasonably close to what i wanted and mistints are cheaper. i dont really remember, but i think the gallon (which i did not use entirely) was about 80 bucks. then 20 for hardner and 20 for reducer. I primed with a half decent rattle can primer sold in a body shop - 40 bucks or so there (people say absolutely not to do this - but i had that paint on for 3 years and no chipping or peeling). Then sanded with 400 or something. Sprayed a light coat, and then another and it looked like garbage. So i played aorund with the settings. went for a slightly oval shape that was a bit heavier in the center so that with a .5 inch overlap between shots it all evened out. wet sanded again. Resprayed. Still getting orange peel. thinned the paint, resprayed at 50-60 psi, and it dripped all over. Wiped it off with reducer. and shot two more coats which were so-so, a bit orange peely, but this blazer IS orange so i called it a night.
Now including prep work and mistakes, spraying this truck took me 3 afternoons. After about 7 days im still finishing off my Rambler roll job. But the job is nicer, theres less mess, and its cheaper. you make the call.
we really do need a paint expert on this forum.
Last edited by nemesis_SS; Aug 14, 2008 at 09:01 PM.
I found this post on a Mopar forum. It sounds promising:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
I think I might try it. I will use gloss regal red for the main body and gloss white for the c stripe.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
I think I might try it. I will use gloss regal red for the main body and gloss white for the c stripe.
I just found this website. This guy used the mopar page discussion and painted his corvair. He give some good information. http://www.rickwrench.com/index79mas...llarpaint.html. I am going to start a thread on this and see what happens.
I have no idea if that brush guard is stock, it does match the styling on the truck though. When I bought the truck the bumper front and rear came like that and they stuck the plate in the window. Once I finish fixing the brakes door and other stuff, Ill remount the plate after i get in inspected.
heres a video of it
http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fusea...deoid=41448451
heres a video of it
http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fusea...deoid=41448451



