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on going brake issues: squeaking drum brake and rusted brake booster

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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 04:56 PM
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Default on going brake issues: squeaking drum brake and rusted brake booster

When I pump the brakes the left drum makes a loud squeaking sound, I havent checked whats going on in there yet but, I think I might have a leak? Which maybe could be why both the brake and anti lock lights are on and a spongy feeling brake pedal?
I dont see any leaks on the outside side of the drum when the brakes are pumped just that squeaking noise. The right drum doesnt make that noise. I also, recently bleed the brakes and there was good streams of fluid but, I still have to really push the pedal to stop.

Also, when i bolted on the new master cylinder I noticed lots of rust inside the brake booster, should it be replaced?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 09:43 PM
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Squeak sittin' still? Brake shoes are loose,need to be adjusted up. Or everythings fell apart. You did bench bleed the master cyl first didn't you? Re bleed the cyl,and the brakes until the fluid's clear,a booster's about $110,if it's rusty replace it. Make sure the vac port ain't plugged with carbon. I'd start at the left rear wheel and see what's loose.
What size tires are you runnin'? My Ramcharger has 35s and the brakes are just too small. I can plant both feet, and it will barely slide a tire in the dirt. On pavement at 45-50 mph,well I just hope nobody pulls out in front of me.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 09:50 PM
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if you do have a leak youll probably see fluid dripping out when you apply brakes. also one chamber in the master cylinder will be empty.

Sponginess could just mean your rear drums need changing - the same goes for the sqeak (as long as the squeak comes from the wheel area and only when you are moving and trying to stop). Anyhow, a leak shouldnt really cause a sqeak since sqeaks are caused by bits rubbing and without pressure in the system that is unlikely. So pull the drums and check the pad - chances are they're worn.

ive never actually seen inside a brake booster so i cant help you there. i guess if its cheap or if you find one at a wrecker then yea, change it for peace of mind.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 09:51 PM
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sorry lug you and i were typing our messages at the same time - when i posted you had just put yours up too. some of the info i repeated.

probably a good idea to grab one of those rebuild kits too - come with springs, a a wheel cylinder, clips etc. usally 20 bucks a wheel or so
 
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 10:18 PM
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Yes by pumping the brakes and sitting still it squeaks, that would make sense the reason its weak if only the fronts are working Ill check those too.

I have stock 15's on it.

Ill pull the drum and see what happened. Then Ill report back.

Yes I did bench bleed the master cylinder, bleed the brakes too. Come to think of it the parking brake really doesnt hold either.
 

Last edited by power ram; Aug 11, 2008 at 10:24 PM.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 11:06 PM
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well heck I need brake tools first. Found the original factory tools for the drum brakes.

Found this site for Chrysler specialty tools: http://www.millerspecialtools.spx.com/Main.aspx
 

Last edited by power ram; Aug 11, 2008 at 11:15 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:35 PM
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you can get by with just a standard brake tool. its got a little scoopy deal on the one side, and a hollow cylinder with a grabber tab on the other. that really doesnt help does it.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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all i know is I spent 4 hrs on one drum brake with just basic tools and i struggled on my nissan truck, then i bought the special brakes tools from nissan and the other side went together in an hr.

are you saying the ones from the dealer are like that or a basic brake tool? I'd rather buy the proper tools than struggle but, thats just me.
 

Last edited by power ram; Aug 12, 2008 at 11:12 PM.
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