Were you able to get the pan off without raising the engine ? How much trouble was it ? My truck makes a noise like that when it is cold. I'd also like to at least check the pick up screen and maybe change the pump.

 

Yes the pan comes out and goes back in without much problem. be mindful of gaskets and also the main seals. mine went in with very little effort. the only tricky spot was front side going over the axle, but it went with out forcing it.

 

alright,

why don't parts stores sell oil pressure gauges?! regardless, the new sending unit is in and the mechanical dash gauge doesn't move at all. all my mech friends are leaning towards spun bearings. Time for a rebuild maybe. is there a site where I can download the data for this motor in PDF format chiltons and Haynes guides are lacking in the user friendly dept. either that or I need 318 rebuilds for dummies.

 

there is a book called "How to Rebuild Small-Block Mopar Engines" and another called "How to Hot Rod Small Block Mopar Engines: Covers All Chrysler, Dodge & Plymouth LA Series Engines-1964 to Present-273-318-340-360 C.I.D."

the link im about to paste is for amazon, but ive seen it cheaper on other sites

http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Sm...ref=pd_sim_b_1

http://www.amazon.com/Small-Block-Mo.../dp/0895864797

 

Thanks for the links. I just ordered both books. can't wait to have my face in this stuff again.

 

The rod that drives ur oil pump hex head pull it
could be rounded off

seen it happen be fore but rebuid might be in order

take oil filter off cut in half see whats in it alumiunm steel copper
take will tell you wants grinding ,but im betting the drive rod

tell us what u find luv to know

 

I just changed my oil pump and it's loud as hell. Someone here mentioned something about the pickup tube being hit by the crank as it goes around. It is so loud. The old one was very quiet so, I think I may have hosed up the install. Shoot. Can I reuse the brand new Felpro gasket or a new one? It's only been on for a day. Hate to have to buy a new one if I don't have to.

 

Manicstrom. If you have a sending unit you do not have a mechanical gauge. An inside mechanical gauge has a tube that carries the actual pressure to the gauge that then reads and interprets that pressure and turns it into a visual signal. A sending unit reads the pressure and turns it into an electrical signal that the gauge then turns into a visual reading. When you install a mechanical gauge in the manner that I explained before you bypass any possible faults that could be in your trucks system (sending unit, wiring, and gauge).

While you were in there did you drop the main bearing caps to look for a spun bearing or damage to the bearings? If not be sure you do it when you drop the pan this time. I would look at each main bearing and journal 1 at a time so the crank remains supported and you will know if any damage was done.

cmckenna, Dropping the pan is a pain and personally I would not take a chance on a leak to save the price of a gasket but you may get away with reusing that gasket. Just be sure the pick up tube is tight, sealed with teflon tape, and flat.
Do you have oil pressure now even with the noise?

 

Yeah, tell me about it- it's not that bad just time consuming. ON mine, I have to remove the two trans support brackets and the bell housing sheetmetal that covers the flex plate. You know what it was? It was the sheet metal that was hitting the flex plate bolts. That's all it was. I got very lucky due to my patience.

I had started to remove the pan. I had just begun loosening each oil pan bolt a small amount when I thought I should just stop and check the forum again. I did just that and someone told me he had the same issue as I and that it was the sheet metal. Well, lo and behold, that's all it was. I re-torqued the pan bolts- glad I didn't remove any or loosen them up too much as it was one turn on each to snug it back up to spec. I reshaped the bent sheet metal so that it was a perfect fit to the oil pan lip around the rear seal and we are good to go.

The only thing that I didn't do was use Teflon tape on the threads and here's why: Mine is a taper fit and, when I went to use Teflon, I had a very hard time threading it back in by hand. The OEM pump had no Teflon so, I "assumed" that I would not need any Teflon tape around the threads. I did measure the amount that it was in the OEM pump before removing it from the OEM one and was careful to match that insertion depth as much as possible on the replacement pump. I do hope that it doesn't suck air at that junction.

My oil pressure reads above 40- about 1 o' clock on the dummy gage. When it is hot and at low idle it reads 40 or noon on the gage. I replaced the sending unit as well. Is this range acceptable and within spec?

Thanks,

Chris

 

That's real good oil pressure.