I have checked ever thing and it looks good.My rig still drifts and alot of play in the steering. I have adjusted the gear box all the way in. What am I missing?

 

Hey, I had a truck set up real similar.
I had drifting issues with it as well.

There were a few things that caused my drift:
there was a loose bolt on the suspension (we fixed this first day I owned it)
the tires (not wheels) were worn a bit - at least thats what I'm assuming since it settled down quit a bit when I put new tires on it.

there was still quite a bit of it after that, but nothing a reasonable driver couldn't handle, in reality I liked it that way because it forced me to pay attention to my driving.

However, since the 8 or so years since I sold that truck, I've learned a bit more about possible causes of drift and steering play.
Is the steering box secured to the frame properly? Acording to a pal of mine, who's owned dozens of Rams, it's common for the bracket to break, and the entire box turns a bit before the steering turns, and so it has to travel that far the other way before it will start turning again.
There's also the possibility of air in there.
And according to a few people (mechanics and enthusiests), lift kits in general can cause a bit of drift if they aren't stiff enough.

Just some thoughts, If these aren't the cause, perhaps they'll help you on the right path. Just, don't do like my brother and use chain binders to stiffen the suspension.

 

If Ihave air in the box , how do I get it out ?

 

that was an oopsies there.
The air, I meant might be in the power steering,
though I was talking with my step father, and made the same mistake with him... But the interesting part, it seems it is possible for air to get in the steering box itself, and his solution is to just pump it full of grease.

I'm not sure I would do that, unless there's a grease nipple on it, but I'm still a bit cautious with my vehicles.
I thought about checking mine for a grease fitting, but it's getting dark already.

 

Jack up the front end, with engine running turn steering wheel lock to lock several times and the air will work out.

 

When bleeding the system do not contact the stops. When you are done allow the engine to run for at least 2 minutes to complete the bleeding process.
Have you looked at the fluid for possible foaming which would indicate internal pump leakage and cause air to be in the system?
Another common problem can be the connector at the steering shaft and the box shaft. Have you had someone else work the steering wheel back and forth while the wheels are on the ground and you watch all the ball joints (one at a time) for free play?
Loose wheel bearings could also cause this problem.

 

That is called the coupler.
The last I did mine I replaced the housing along the internals and put a grease fitting at the bottom (the steering box end) of it.
Grease it at every oil change.

Been about six years ago, still good.

 

does your lift kit have any kind of a shim under the front leafs to adjust pinion angle??? if so pull thoes things out!!! thoes are dumest thing ever invented. they screw up the caster angle and will never drive straight. you may want to check the caster angle anyway, it should be tilted slightly rearward, if its colse to straight up, its not good.

also on my 75, i completely boxed the frame and built (overbuilt) all my own crossmembers, and that thing drives better than my brand new dakota

 

It dont have the shims in it. I think I found the trouble the slip joint is wore out. I'm going to rebuild it soon.

 

Where can I find a slip joint rebuild kit for my rig?