just remember, every hole you make, is a new area for rust to start.
It's also going to weaken the metal a bit.
Double the metal over around the edges if you can. That will /help/ prevent the holes from reaming out larger. It won't prevent it, but will help.

As far as welding the stuff, it is pretty easy, but the fumes are very toxic. You should use a respirator even if your doing the welding outdoors.

Also, bed frame rails under the sheet metal where your feet rest will help prevent ya from "stepping through" the floor. That can also be bolted to the cab and the frame to make up for the dud mount. I find bed frames on craigslist all the time for free. Not the best metal to use, but, eh, it works well enough for things in a pinch.

One other thing:
If you can do a full sheet all the way across, over the tunnel, you'll get a more sturdy floor.

 

Crazzywolfie, that's one thing I love about Michigan. Even though our economy sucks and unemployment is highest in the nation, all I need to get plates on a vehicle is proof of insurance and a title. If we had inspections here I'd be screwed.

I guess we'll try to weld the galvanized stuff and see how it goes. AeSix, thanks for the tip about doubling it up around the edges, that should help a lot. I think it should be strong enough without bed frame rails, but I'll look into it, thanks again.

 

welding galvanized won't kill you, but it will make you sick, and there's just no way it can be good for you. i wouldn't do it w/o a respirator.

http://www.sperkoengineering.com/htm...Galvanized.pdf

 

that would be nice. no emitions testing would be even nicer. where i live you can buy a safety but it is practically imposible to buy a pass on the emitions testing.

 

Its funny how those w-200s always seem to rust out in the same place...mine isn't that bad...but its pretty bad. Good luck

 

all dodge truck usually rot out in the same places. the amount of rust more so has to do with where you live and how well you take care of you truck. if you were to wash your truck once a month and get it oiled before winter it would last longer than not washing and oiling it.

 

With that much rust I would look closely at the whole frame and especially the crossmembers. For offroading those will be important.

 

Getcha some 2x4" .125" wall square tube, cut the rockers out and put some rock sliders in. Weld some braces to the frame, and now you have something solid to weld the floor to. Takes care of the cab mounts too.

 

Yeah...i just bought mine, a 1980 w200 power wagon a couple weeks ago. Its got the rust in the floorboards the worst. Also behind the seat in the lower cab corners. Rockers seem to be ok.

Is there a way to replace these cab corners, or is it not worth the trouble?

Also its seem like I'm gettin some pin holes below the rear window. I afraid to think of what kind of rust is hiding between the double wall panels. Is there a way to get up in the without cutting panels out?

 

if your cab corners are starting to go i think you will need a need cab. you could try welding it but if has started shifting you may run into some problems. i have no idea how you would repair below the rear window. you might wan't to look around for a cab.