I've got a 1990 3/4 ton Dodge ram 4x4 and am thinking of lifting it 2 or 3 inches. Its got straight axles, springs are over top of the axles. What's the best/easiest/cheapest way to lift it a couple inches? i don't want to get into too much hassle with drive shafts, steering etc so want to keep it to a small lift. Can I use blocks on the spring pads? Extra leafs in the springs? Who makes a kit for this that I could install myself?

 

Just to be clear, the truck is a 1990 W250 Power Ram (4x4), 318, 4-speed.

 

You just looking to clear 33s? I got a 5" kit and I didn't have to mess with my shafts, and the only brake line problem I had was fixed by relocating where the rear hardline mounts. Steering on the other hand, was and still is an issue. IF you do go more than an inch or two, get Skyjacker's adjustible drag link. Don't eff around with a steering arm block or a drop pitman. I've messed with a 3" block and a 3" drop pitman and now I've got the 3" block and a 2" drop pitman, but I hate it. I'm going to put the stock arms back on both and get the drag link. I'm certain that the increased leverage on my steering arm is causing bump steer and even with a double steering stabilizer kit on it I sometimes bounce half a lane over on the freeway.

so anyway, I'd check out skyjacker, rancho, etc. Stick with the big names and you should be fine. I'd stay away from blocks - in the rear you've already got a 3" block iirc from the factory, so either do the add-a-leaf or get a 5-6" lift spring and ditch the factory block.

 

Thanks Horatio. Ya, I was hoping to get 33's under it, but was hoping to do it with only a 2 or 3 inch lift. I didn't think I'd need 5". The hassles you're having with steering confirms my fears about doing too big a lift. I don't really want to go there.
I'm considering trimming the fenders a bit if needed, its an old truck anyways. Has anyone tried this; how hard is it? Doesn't look too hard at the back, but the front fenders have inner liners that could be a pain. Is there any way to nicely finish trimmed fenders to cover sharp edges?
Also, if I keep the lift small do I still need to get longer shocks? At what point do I need to worry about longer shocks, relocating shockmounts/bump stops and all that?

 

Well with a 2" lift you shouldn't have to worry about shock mounts or bump stops, and you might not need to fuss with the steering but I'd still look into a slightly longer shock to keep from topping it out under articulation.
According to the April Four Wheeler's article on 'What you need to fit 44s' you'll need a 3.5" suspension lift to clear 33x12.50s, but you could probably do it just fine with a 2" and some fender triming. It also says that a 4" lift and minor trimming will fit 35s. I've got a 5" lift and no trimming and if fully articulated I can't turn the steering wheel at all, so one of these days I'm going to take the sawz-all to it.
As far as finishing it off, I'd recommend cutting a 1/2" or so less that you want the opening at and bending it in - you'll surely rip a tire on a jagged edge if it's just cut.

 

i have a 1990 3/4 ton dodge 4x4 with the 360. i just recently installed a rough contry 4 inch lift and i am running bfg 35x12.50 on it with plenty of fender clearance. the kit also has the option for new rear springs instead of block and it comes with new shocks. on the steering i installed the spacer block, but i don't have any steering problems because of the spacer.

 

That's really interesting. When I had just the spacer on mine I could turn left just fine, but if I turned right I would hit the steering lock and make a really wide turn, ending up in on-coming traffic. That was fixed by a dropped pitman arm that centered everything right. About the tire clearance - if you drive one front tire up on a stump or rock or something and tuck it up into the fender can you still turn the wheel?

 

i haven't had the oppertunity to test how well i can stuff the tires in the fender and turn. i know looks arn't everything, but it looks as though it won't rub. i'm not sure how much of a difference it might make but i'm running stock rims, so i believe my tires stay under the pickup more. the only thing bad about the lift is i had to ad an ad a leaf and now the pickup rides so rough i don't know how well i could stuff a front tire in the fender anyway. maybe thats how they got their name (rough contry).

 

lol
I had/have a front sway bar off a 2wd 1-ton and it would still stuff the front tire just fine, which really surprised me. The bar is like an inch and a half diameter. I'm not running stock wheels anymore - aren't they 6 or 7 inches wide? - so that is perhaps what the difference is. I've got 16.5x9.75 wagon wheels and with the 3" drop pitman the tire rubbed on the drag link under full lock.