1989 w150 front Hub Question
#11
Ok this might sound stupid, but if the passenger axle is locked all the time how would the hubs unlock it? Meaning why wouldn't you use just one hub since the other is always engaged if I understand correctly?
I would prefer not to have any front axles engaged when in 2 WD if possible?
Since I live up in Northern Mi and its winter here hense snow plowing season. Once that has passed I will take a peek inside the vacuum housing and see if its welded or not.
Plus since the company that makes the Posi Lok is here in Mi I could get it pretty quick.
I would prefer not to have any front axles engaged when in 2 WD if possible?
Since I live up in Northern Mi and its winter here hense snow plowing season. Once that has passed I will take a peek inside the vacuum housing and see if its welded or not.
Plus since the company that makes the Posi Lok is here in Mi I could get it pretty quick.
#12
Forget about the passenger axle being the only axle locked at all times. This is not the case.
Both outside axles (right & left) are directly/mechanically connected to the wheels and therefore turn any time the wheels turn. If you want to disengage all of the axles while in 2x4 locking hubs are the only way and you must do both sides. The locking hubs when unlocked would disconnect both outer axles from their respective wheels at the hub.
The intermediate axle is connected to the right axle thru the differential and therefore turns any time the right wheel turns. The gears and the intermediate axle would also stop turning when the right hub was unlocked.
Both outside axles (right & left) are directly/mechanically connected to the wheels and therefore turn any time the wheels turn. If you want to disengage all of the axles while in 2x4 locking hubs are the only way and you must do both sides. The locking hubs when unlocked would disconnect both outer axles from their respective wheels at the hub.
The intermediate axle is connected to the right axle thru the differential and therefore turns any time the right wheel turns. The gears and the intermediate axle would also stop turning when the right hub was unlocked.
#13
#14
If you are sold on manual hubs I would leave the vacuum axle locked to simplify the system. There is no reason whatsoever to have two separate locking systems operating at the same time. I would, as soon as the weather allows, figure out how they locked the vacuum actuated axle lock just so you know what you have and that it is reliable.
I assume you are talking about manual hubs and not automatic hubs. The automatic hubs are the least reliable means to lock the system and I think you would be making a mistake to go with them.
I assume you are talking about manual hubs and not automatic hubs. The automatic hubs are the least reliable means to lock the system and I think you would be making a mistake to go with them.
Last edited by SEAL; 11-30-2011 at 05:48 PM.
#15
Yes manual hubs. My logic behind all this is I would have less wear and tear on the front end and the non greasable u joints on those axles plus hoping to get better gas mileage. I got 2 mpg more with amsoil which got me to 11 mpg and I plan on putting it in the differentials in the spring.
If i have nothing to gain let me know
If i have nothing to gain let me know
#16
My truck is mainly a work truck and it does plow snow for me and my neighbors up here on the mountain. I speak from personal experience and what I have heard on this site and other sites when I say the following. You will not see any noticeable increase in mileage. Several folks have done this and all reported no increase in mileage. I will be surprised if others don't chime in here. The parts that you will save from wear and tear simply don't seem to wear out easily as far as I can tell. I still have the original u-joints in mine throughout the front end. I can't say that for the rear u-joints. LOL
Would I do this for the stated reasons? No. But it is your truck. Good luck with whatever you decide.
Would I do this for the stated reasons? No. But it is your truck. Good luck with whatever you decide.
Last edited by SEAL; 11-30-2011 at 06:38 PM.
#17
Wow. I do believe you. It just seems that if there is no drag from the front differential that mileage would increase.
My truck is same usuage as yours 300 ft driveway and 1/4 mile of seasonal road. Then the when you need it home depot or pick up a piano.
So in your opinion the posi loc if not welded is the way to go?
If I was to do the manual hubs does my stock hubs have that funky lock with 4 notches inside to remove? The haynes manual does not show my hubs. Just manuals and autos
My truck is same usuage as yours 300 ft driveway and 1/4 mile of seasonal road. Then the when you need it home depot or pick up a piano.
So in your opinion the posi loc if not welded is the way to go?
If I was to do the manual hubs does my stock hubs have that funky lock with 4 notches inside to remove? The haynes manual does not show my hubs. Just manuals and autos
#18
I personally will stick with the vacuum lock system and yes on the funky 4 notch adjuster nuts. I think the existing hubs on ours are the simplest hubs out there with the fewest problems.
I plow about 15 driveways from 300 ft to 1/2 mile each and up to 4 miles of road but we don't get northern Mi snow.
I plow about 15 driveways from 300 ft to 1/2 mile each and up to 4 miles of road but we don't get northern Mi snow.
#19
#20
If the axles are locked (by whatever means) then you are turning the axles, the ring gear, the pinion, the drive shaft, and parts inside the transfer case any time the truck moves. While the mass and resistance of the axles themselves is small you are adding a lot of pretty heavy parts that normally do not have to move if the axles can be unlocked. I will repeat my recommendation to fix the existing axle locking system wether it remains vacuum actuated or you choose the mechanical Posi Lock cable system. The advantage of the Posi loc manual control is that it gives you a 2 wheel drive low capability for heavy low speed towing even on hard surfaces.