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93 W250 pulling to the right

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Old May 30, 2010 | 04:46 PM
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Default 93 W250 pulling to the right

Brief desc. brought to me, no brake pedal, MC signs of leakage by brake booster, front pads approx 90%, rotors bluish (not sure timeline on previous brake job). R/R MC, bench bled, and bleed compl system. great pedal. T-Drv, extreme shake when appling pedal, R/R rotors, calipers, pads and pack W-brgs. T-Drv. Shake is gone but pulls to right under mild/moderate pedal psi, veh stops straight under heavy/(anti lock activation) pedal psi. Right brake assem, very hot. left side warm/hot. Veh handles great under normal conditions. CHeck and adj rear shoes ( way out of adj) ,T-Drv. no change . Remove and flush center brake hose and R/R outer brake hoses,re-bleed. T-Drv. no change. checked for binding or sticky calipers, all caliper slide surfaces cleaned and lubed. Now pulling at straws. Swap pads side to side, no change. Tire psi/wear and size equal. R/R calipers with old , no change. All T-rods and Upper/lower KPs tight, steering and chassis components,bushings appear/feel tight. . No ABS light. ( yes , lol, abs light bulb is installed and operable) . No mods on this veh all stock.
 

Last edited by JeeMC; Jun 1, 2010 at 01:00 AM. Reason: problem solved
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Old May 30, 2010 | 06:28 PM
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could just need an alignment. blue rotors ment that the rotors got super hot like if the caliper was sticking.
 

Last edited by crazzywolfie; May 30, 2010 at 06:30 PM.
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Old May 30, 2010 | 06:49 PM
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Default 93 pulling to right

Tire wear and drivability doesnt indicate an alignment problem. If veh is driven down center or left side of road i get same results. Even on dirt roads all tires are braking but still pulls right. Thank you for your answer
 
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Old May 31, 2010 | 06:14 AM
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R/R can mean repair/replace, remove/repair, remove/replace, and replace can mean after inspection same part was reused or new part was used. Please be more specific as to what was done so we can help you better.

The problem is the right front brakes. Sounds like a caliper or a partially collapsed hose. When a hose goes bad inside they can prevent fluid from freely flowing in one or both directions. If it were me I would replace the caliper and hose both, I always replace the hose when I replace a caliper as you cannot tell when a hose fails internally and the amount of heat it takes to blue a rotor would almost assuredly effect the hose detrimentally.
 

Last edited by SEAL; May 31, 2010 at 06:17 AM.
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