I will go try that now, I dont have a gauge though.......

 

That would be your 02 sensor. If it hasn't had anything hooked up to it in a long time then I would not worry about that. Does it still have a catalytic converter on it? It may be getting clogged. You can also try running some Chevron Techron through it in your gas or even Stabil fuel treatment. They will clean out the deposits left by ethanol in your gas. Also check your PCV Valve, and vacuum lines for cracks or dry rot.

 

http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c4...t=100_1178.mp4
Here is a video (hope it works) if you look & listen careful when I crack open the throttle it "lopes" along, well that will "pop" when driving it. I sprayed all around the throttle body, vacuum lines, intake with soapy water, no leaks. Yes, it does have a cat on it....

 

Is there a vacuum advance for the distributor? Did you change the cap or points if it has em or clean em? It sounds like it may be starving for fuel, but hard to diagnose when I'm not there.

A new fuel pump runs around 30-40$. I do not know what the fuel pressure was supposed to be at idle, in 89 but for the 96 model it was around 60psi.

 

No vacuum advance on dist. Yes, I put new cap, rotor, wires, plugs, air filter, frame fuel filter, coil. I even pulled the EGR valve, made a "block off plate" an reinstalled it. Still no change.

 

I have a 1989 Dodge half ton, rear wheel, v6 tbi. Last week I took it for inspection and the HC was 308. I needed 220 to pass. I replaced the O2 sensor, put a new catylic and a complete tune-up. It passed ; the HC went down to 210 but now I have a ratling sound thats like a clutch fan ratle. Sounds like loose berings or something, so I,ve decided to swap for a 318 that I found for 350.00. What should I look for in doing this mission?

 

PB92;
Rule number one. If you are going to work on your own vehicle invest in a manual if you haven't already.

I do not believe in a parts replacement strategy to trouble shooting as it is very expensive. That being said I would first replace that O2 sensor because it is not repairable and obviously inoperative. I have not heard you say you set the timing so I would suggest you do that.

The MAP sensor serves as an electronic equivalent to both the vacuum advance on the distributer and the power valve in a carburetor. It can be tested with a multi-meter and a hand held vacuum pump. You can also test if you have vacuum to the MAP from the throttle body. Be aware that some of the vacuum nipples on the throttle body are ported and will not give good vacuum readings for the MAP.

Don't waste your time looking for a shrader valve that does not exist in the fuel system. The only way to check fuel pressure is to tee in a gauge to the fuel supply line. However I don't think your problem is fuel related.

I have very little confidence in the onboard diagnostics used in the 89 model. I have always had false codes for systems not even in my truck and sometimes no codes set for problems with systems that were proven faulty. This is evidenced in your case by no code for a totally disconnected O2 sensor. (should be a code 21)

 

Seal, that makes a lot of sense. I dont have testing equipment, so I would have to purchase them, and the manual. I spoke with my local Dodge pusher, they said about $97 an hour to diagnose.
My nemesis is I had the truck for 6 years, paid $700 for it, put about $300 into it, so I have about 1k into it. Its an old lobster truck, VERY rusty, and at this point I would be willing to put maybe another $200 into it, and thats it.

I guess I will replace the MAP sensor (if I can) and put a new O2 sensor in, but the O2 sensor has no wire and I have no idea where to look for it or where it goes to.......the timing should not have moved from last tuneup. Nobody has touched it.

So thats my situation............

 

Seal and guys, thanks for the advice. I brought the truck to my local mechanic (the only one who I trust to work on my vehicles other then the dealer), and he said, "the wiring harness for the 02 sensor either burned or it was removed, nowhere to be found. The CAT is not plugged, everything you touch is either rusted/heat cracked/old and falling apart. How for do you want to go with this. Right now it runs halfway decent until it gets warm, then it backfires and wants to stall." When he said backfire, I thought of the MAP sensor. I'll replace the MAP sensor, if that dont do it to where its usable, then I scrap it.

That said, does anybody have a post on how to replace the MAP? Thanks guys!!!

>Bob

 

Replacing a MAP sensor is nothing but a wiring connector, a vacuum hose, and a couple of screws.