Turns out I didn't need a socket to get the nut off. After a few hits with a hammer I could turn it by hand. The innerds of the drum were a lot worse than I expected, all the hardware was laying in the bottom of the drum solid pile of rust. This is going to be more of a project than I was hoping for.

 

Good deal, There is enough "resistence" to keep it tight, on re-assembly?

 

Ironmower; There is a locking ring that holds the nut in position once reinstalled.

CSXfan; You will still need a socket to properly reinstall the nut as it must be torqued to 120-140 FT LBS and then backed off 1/3 of a turn (120 degrees) to give the proper end play. It should be easier to make a socket now that you have it off. I get my large minimum use sockets at Northern Hydraulics as they are much cheaper.

 

SEAL;

Hmmm. Not any locking ring on mine. It's a self locking nut. the kind that has the neoprene locking washer on the end. They reccomend it to be changed ever time it's removed. Just looked it up on Advances web site, goes for 15 bucks.

 

Ok I got everything installed and I bled the system. The pedal is VERY spongy, and putting it all the way to the floor doesn't really stop the truck very fast. Before (when only the front brakes were hooked up) the truck stopped farely decent. What could be wrong? Air in the system?

 

Got to be air. I'd re-bleed the whole system, front and back. Bleed it till you see clean fluid.

You may have to re-adjust your rear shoes, also. But, out of adjustment shoes will give you a "low" pedal. Your shoes should just drag alittle when you turn the drum by hand.