it sounds like the alternator is not charging the truck when it is running. you should check the voltage at the battery and at the alternator with a multimeter when you have it running. you should be getting about 13-14 volts.

 

You have a fusible link in this system also. Do you have 12 volts at the large lug on the alternator when the engine is not running and the battery is charged?

 

Put a new voltage regulator in, connected the multimeter onto the battery and ran the truck with a jump. Voltage started around 12.7 and just dropped steadily. This is with all the new grounds. I don't know what to do and I am gonna be kinda mad if I have replaced all these parts with them not being the reason. Autozone checked everything for me and said they were bad. Although that is a "good" business practice for them that doesn't help me find what is wrong with my truck. How do I check the lug SEAL?

 

What you are checking is the fusible link. Ground one lead of the voltmeter and touch the other lead to the lug. You should have battery voltage at the lug when the truck is not running.

You also need to do what crazzywolfie said in his last post with the truck running and let us know the results.

You might want to take the truck by Autozone again to have it checked without mentioning the parts you have replaced until after they have run the check. This might prove very interesting.

 

I mentioned the results of my running test, 12.7. Where is the fuseable link?

 

Trouble shooting electrical problems is a process that requires different electrical measurements be taken at different points under various conditions. It is a step by step process that eliminates certain parts and areas of wiring as the tests are performed and the results are known. This process also tells us where and what to test next. I am trying to test one part or circuit while crazzywolfie is trying to test another. Neither of our tests have any more validity then the other until the results are known. Both tests are necessary at this point if you are to find this problem. I know it can be some what confusing when two or more people are trying to help you at the same time but ALL of this information must be gathered until the problem is located. I understand how frustrating electrical problems can be but stick with it and you will be rewarded.

The test you mentioned was 12.7 volts at the battery. You also need the voltage at the large lug on the alternator when the truck is running, like crazzywolfie said. If there is (or is not) a difference in voltage at these 2 points, will tell us a lot of information about where your problem is (or is not) located. For instance if there is 12.7 volts at both points we then know the alternator is not putting out but we wouldn't know why at that moment without more voltage tests.

"Where is the fuseable link?" In different years they are in different places so I am not sure with yours but most of them are just down stream from the bullet connector just behind the battery in the positive wiring. Identifying a fusible link is somewhat counter intuitive. The actual conductor wire inside the link is several gauges smaller than the wiring it protects but the outside of the link is slightly larger than the wiring it protects due to added insulation. A burnt fusible link may brake internally with no visual signs that it is bad or it may burn thru and be obvious. Sometimes continuity or voltage checks are the only way to tell if it is good or bad.

Again, I emphasize the need to do ALL of our tests and give us ALL of the results so that we may interpret those results. I will try to tell you my conclusions and my rational for those conclusions so that you can understand and learn. We only want to help and it is frustrating for us also when you don't answer ALL of our questions. Example: If you reread this thread and count how many times you have been asked for information about voltages at different points or other information and then count how many of those questions you answered.

 

Haha, sorry SEAL. I'll run out and get those results.

 

OK, I finally got down to business with the dodge. I had to put it on the back burner because of college courses and I spent a week on the firing range during the coldest part of December. Tonight I went out fired it up and took the volt readings. While running I had; Battery-11.93V and dropping, Alternator(At large lug and exhaust manifold bolt)- 45.3V. When not running I had; Battery-11.98V, Alternator-0.0V. I am assuming my alternator should not be putting that out but that is the reading I was getting. It would make sense that it would fry any fuse-able links. Tell me what is up guys.

 

with the key in the run position you should check the voltage at the other 2 wires on the alternator.

 

It might be a long shot but I had a '85 W250 and had a similar problem which also thinned my hair, what I found was where the wiring block connects to the firewall it was coroding and I took it apart used contact cleaner and dialectic grease on the plugs also wiggle the wires on the block and see if any are loosing contact it remidied my issue, I also replaced alot of componants too before i found this so I feel your pain. Good Luck