Fuel lines
Legend
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,025
Likes: 72
From: orangeville ontario
the line that has the fuel filter on it it the fuel line and the other line is the return fuel line. i bought a hole roll of steal fuel line and made my own fuel lines. its not like you would be able to buy pre-bent lines for it. be careful if you are replacing the fuel line. they are usually right beside the brake lines and if they have not been replaced they could be fragile and easily damaged when replacing the fuel lines.
Legend
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,025
Likes: 72
From: orangeville ontario
they do. it is pretty expensive though. i think my fuel lines on my truck for about $20 to make my self but i have a double flaring tool.
http://inlinetube.com/Preformed%20Li.../DT-CAT-03.htm
http://inlinetube.com/Preformed%20Li.../DT-CAT-03.htm
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Registered User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
please help!
I replaced my tank and repaired sending unit on my truck. I intended on replacing the fuel lines also. When i got to looking at them they are very bad. The fuel line bundle that runs on the inside of the frame is crusty too. I tgoes up to a braided type line. How did you work this connection? I am not all that comfortable doing this as I am not a very good mechanic.....any thoughtsadvice? I am ok with going the bulk rout but are there special percautions for the high pressure line? I am ok with spending the money for a kit like is on the link above but i didn't see it listed for the d 150.........and the dealer is discontinued.
Legend
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,025
Likes: 72
From: orangeville ontario
on my truck it looked like someone had just cut it and attached it to a flared fuel line and used hose clamps. i don't think the fuel lines are too high pressure.
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Champion
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,639
Likes: 4
From: Bent Mountain Va
The feed line should not see more than 45 PSI but you do need to use fuel injection rated fuel hose. If you have never flared fuel or brake lines you do need to practice a little to get a good double flare. If you buy a short factory double flare line you can compare how you are doing with it until you get it down.
Last edited by SEAL; Jan 28, 2011 at 07:03 PM.
Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 449
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, Texas
I have a 91 D150 and it has fuel injection as yours probably does at least according to my Haynes manual. A manual will also tell you how to de-pressurize the fuel system.
You will need a fuel line disconnect tool to undo the coupler and some WD40 or equivalent. I bought one for cheap at PepBoys.
As far as the braided line goes you might not want to change it. I thought it was rubber underneath and would need to be changed out but it was some form of strong plastic and still solid underneath. I ended up wasting a good solid braided line. Now the rubber end that connects to the throttle body can be changed out if your careful and a little crafty. I put the hose in a vise just tight enough to keep it from moving and cut the aluminum cap that holds the rubber end to the braided line fitting. I used a hacksaw until I got close and then snipped it loose with some small wire cutters and needle nose pliers. That way you change out the rubber and replace the cap with a clamp. Now what SEAL said about the thicker fuel injection rated rubber fuel line is important for longetivity with the higher pressure. Also, keep in mind that the two lines are different sizes as well. So you will also need the two different size fuel injection hose clamps. I learned the hard way and had to sort them out. To be safe, you might want to change out one at a time.
Something that didn't get mentioned was buying some fuel lines from a salvage yard. I use a Pick & Pull yard and most vehicles already have the tanks removed and easy access to the lines. You might find a good set of lines and save the line bending tool and doubleflaring tool expense. Just make sure that you measure yours first to compare. Long bed vs short bed and Std cab vs Ext cab too.
BTW It does take a little practice with the double flaring tool as I found out. On my truck, some genie thought it would be easier to hacksaw the fuel line instead of cutting the factory pressed hose clamps to remove the fuel filter.
Hope this helps.
You will need a fuel line disconnect tool to undo the coupler and some WD40 or equivalent. I bought one for cheap at PepBoys.
As far as the braided line goes you might not want to change it. I thought it was rubber underneath and would need to be changed out but it was some form of strong plastic and still solid underneath. I ended up wasting a good solid braided line. Now the rubber end that connects to the throttle body can be changed out if your careful and a little crafty. I put the hose in a vise just tight enough to keep it from moving and cut the aluminum cap that holds the rubber end to the braided line fitting. I used a hacksaw until I got close and then snipped it loose with some small wire cutters and needle nose pliers. That way you change out the rubber and replace the cap with a clamp. Now what SEAL said about the thicker fuel injection rated rubber fuel line is important for longetivity with the higher pressure. Also, keep in mind that the two lines are different sizes as well. So you will also need the two different size fuel injection hose clamps. I learned the hard way and had to sort them out. To be safe, you might want to change out one at a time.
Something that didn't get mentioned was buying some fuel lines from a salvage yard. I use a Pick & Pull yard and most vehicles already have the tanks removed and easy access to the lines. You might find a good set of lines and save the line bending tool and doubleflaring tool expense. Just make sure that you measure yours first to compare. Long bed vs short bed and Std cab vs Ext cab too.
BTW It does take a little practice with the double flaring tool as I found out. On my truck, some genie thought it would be easier to hacksaw the fuel line instead of cutting the factory pressed hose clamps to remove the fuel filter.
Hope this helps.
