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1977? Sno Commander resto

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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 03:34 PM
  #21  
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Thanks for being patient with me on this, I appreciate it. I'm sure you have noticed I'm still just a youngin' trying to learn from experienced people.
 

Last edited by JayDak05; Feb 28, 2011 at 04:29 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 09:11 PM
  #22  
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I think this is it but obviously without the 'Sno-Commander' decals.

 
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 09:49 PM
  #23  
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Just make that sucker an extended cab and there it is.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 11:48 PM
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I live in Minnesota should be called Maxesalta. Anyway if the frame is that rusty I can't believe the bodys not. On my 73 Power Wagon one side of the box fell off with a load of firewood in it. I was off road at the time.
Maybe yours had better paint or was galvinized.
Look it over real well before you start because I know you want this truck. But your always better off starting with something with as little rust as you can get.
I see alot of people fixing up rusty cars and trucks up here just to see the rust pop right back out.
I'm going to tick a few guys off here. But the fact is they made alot of Dodge trucks and thay sell cheap if you look around. If your bodys good and you want to use it I bet you can buy a complete truck for a grand or so and drive it home for the parts you need.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 12:10 AM
  #25  
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 12:23 AM
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Just need a bit of TLC !
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 11:37 AM
  #27  
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Yeah, it is in pretty shotty shape I do admit that. The bed I won't even try to slavage because I recall that being horrible. The cab from what I remember has little rust though, some, but not a whole lot, however I'm pretty sure that the floors and the entire bottom half of the cab will probably rot out in time anyway because all the salt and crap. I don't plan on not having to weld new body peices on here and there, I'm going to have to salvage what I can from it. If I spend the $1k to buy a good running and street legal truck to drive back home, that would just null my whole reason for doing this project. It won't be a whole numbers matching all original restoration either, it's going to be more of a custom resto...it's going to take a long time, and a lot of cursing, bleeding, chucking things around and yelling that is for certain.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 11:47 AM
  #28  
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My 91' came from Digby N.S., (which is right along the coast) well I learned the hard way why they say never buy a truck from Digby. I had the cab mounts all replaced (the boxes they sat on were swiss cheese and the cab was sagging) had both rocker panels replaced, I put on two new front fenders, replaced cab corners, and the driverside floor is all new, and a little patch on the passenger side. It seem like the more I cut out the more rust I found, also the box had been replaced with fiberglass sides, so I figured "well I'll never have to fix that from rust, right?" wrong, the pieces of the original box that they glued the fiberglass to had rotted out, now my bed rail on the driverside is sagging, that's this summers project lol or find a new bed, but the frame and the box floor are all mint. Moral being, if you can find a less rustier truck for parts, buy it.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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I can understand that, it sucks that back home is a Ford and Chevy dominant area though. If I found a body and frame in good condition (even without a drivetrain or anything else) I would definitely get that...There's plenty of stuff at the U-Pull it yards I need, I don't mind mixing and matching body panel colors right now, and there is a lot of good looking metal in those yards, plenty rust free parts if I take from a few trucks...definitely can get all the body pieces from there with ease.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 12:51 PM
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Keep an eye on creigslist. Got my rust free 81 W250 for 1500 bucks a week or two ago. The guy bought it in Washington. Don't know if thay salt out there or if it was parked in the winter. It needs a bit of work under the hood and I gott'a get rid of the glasspacks. But that's way better than body work.
 
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