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92 - 5.2 liter running bad ready to give up!!!!

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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 03:05 PM
  #11  
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The oil is not in the connector its in the part of the sensor that goes into the intake, when I unscrew it the probe is convered with oil. Did a test again today, truck starts and idles fine, losts of power, no missing or hesitation, drives perfect 100%, it took about 10 minutes and bang, truck runs bad, real bad, had to pull over in someones yard, truck will barley move at this point bunking, backfiring, missing. This happens sever time, every single time without fail. Wait 1/2 hour, started truck ran fine, drove away if I give hard gas backfire, if I am light on teh gas can get up to highway speed. Drove 6 minutes stopped at the store truck is at full temp now. Get back in truck and drive it along with no problems running 100%, now that it is hot I can drive it for days with no issue. The propblem only happens in the transition between the truck coming to tempurature and being at temp?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 04:20 PM
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This may sound stupid but I am at a loss as to why a sensor that is screwed into a water passage has oil on the probe part of the sensor. We should be talking about a two wire sensor that is in the front of the intake on the drivers side of the intake next to the thermostat housing. This sensor should be lower than the thermostat housing. If this is not right please explain.
 

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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 02:36 PM
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send me your e-mail to bmhandyman@hotmail.com, I will send you a picture of the sensor I am talking about, I may have stumbled on something today, the truck started to run crappy so I stopped and let it idle, then opened the hood, after about 5 minutes the truck was starting to run good again so I pulled on the ground wire to the block and the truck started to run crappy, I noticed the ground was very oily from a small leak on the valve cover. I removed the ground, brake cleaned everything, wire brushed and sanded all the contacts and hooked everything back up, once the truck is cooled down I will take it for a drive and see if this was the issue, I am just grasping at straws now
 
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Old Apr 25, 2011 | 12:24 PM
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This might be it!! You know how I mentioned the truck soes a quick one/two shift on the tranny this has always bothered me, I finally had a chance to talk to my transmission guy and he mentioned to me he once had a truck that did the identical thing. It ended up being the speed control sensor on the transmission that was messing up the ocmputer, he said it would not throw any codes. I read in one of thee 3000 posts out there about this problem that another guy had the same issue and he had mentioned a transmission part being replaced and the problem stopped.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 11:37 PM
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Can I say ****?? Changed the speed sensor and took the truck for a rip, everything runs perfect......ya right not, I hate this truck I really hate it, the spped sensor I took out was just about in pieces and now the truck seems to have alot more jam but now when it hits temperature its worse it just about shuts down, it actually would not idle this time it stalled, started right up but could barley get it to move, made it my shop let it idle and **** for 10 minutes then idle smoothe out and away I went no problems. I checked compression 105 on all cylinders, gapped each plug to 0.30, and took off all the plug wires and reinstalled them, I installed them wrong first and it ran like crap like it does when its warm, then fixed the wires and away I went, what is the ERG valve and could it be making my life hell, can I bypass this ERG devil?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 07:15 AM
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EGR system problems are usually experienced at idle or slow speeds. If you suspect an EGR problem you can pull the EGR valve temporarily and blank off the manifold openings with a home made plate. If the problem disappears you can then trouble shoot the EGR system. I am still waiting for that picture.
 

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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 03:32 PM
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K last night did some work

Pulled all the plugs, gapped them all to 0.30, checked compression on all cylinders all were at 100 psi except #4 was at 115psi, checked all the wires, changed the speed sensor made no difference but my wallet is $120 lighter, I unplugged the o2 sensor today at noon to see what it will do, strange thing is with the o2 sensor unplugged no check engine light? it does not runn as well with it unplugged sluggish, I will take the pic tonight and send it to you, I think you ae 100% right in saying that parts replacement is not a good way to trouble shoot!!!
 
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Old Apr 27, 2011 | 04:14 PM
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Some times a code will not be set because problems happen outside of normal operating parameters. Some times a code will only be set if a problem occurs a certain number of times. With the O2 sensor unplugged the computer goes into limp home mode and cannot accurately supply the proper fuel/air mix to maximize power.

I know this gets old for regular forum members but here is my normal statement for computer controlled vehicle problems:

Do you have a manual? Do you have a volt meter? You are going to actually have to do some electrical diagnostic tests to determine what is wrong. There are voltage and resistance checks that can be done on all of the computer input modules. (MAP, TPS, temp sensor, O2 sensor, and others) No one can trouble shoot a vehicle accurately without doing these tests. We can help you interpret the info you get from these tests but you must do them or we will continue shooting in the dark.

Just a note; 100 PSI compression is the minimum compression for your engine. I only point that out so you understand not to expect to much from a worn engine.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 12:46 PM
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I have been told these engine had very bad intake gaskets, could it be that when the iron block and alum intake are cold it runs fine as the metals are touching eachother but as it warms up the metals expand at different rates opening up a leak on the intake then as both metals get to the same temp the metals come together again and seal again? would explain why it only does when it first reachs temp?
 
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Old Apr 28, 2011 | 12:48 PM
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Other option I can buy a rebuilt 360 throuble body fuel injection with a overdrive tranny from an 89 dodge for $500 with the original truck, would it be hard to put this into my truck? I assume I would need the wiring harness for the engine compartment and the computer from the 89? Thinking is 100psi in the minimun manybe time to axe this problem engine and cut my loss
 
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