do you have power at the coil with the key in the run position? it almost sound like it is going to run till you let go of the key almost like your start circuit is good but the run circuit is bad. in that video it don't look like you are pumping the gas. looks like you are just holding it.

 

It was bring pumped. And how toci check for power at the coil? Multimeter? If so how much am I looking for

 

Use a multi-meter to check for 12 volts at the positive side of the coil while you are cranking and with the key in the run position. My ears aren't the best but I can hear you pumping the throttle. Am I also hearing a pop back through the carb at the end of cranking in the video?

 

Yes you are hearing a pop through the carb

 

According to my multimeter I have 5.88 volts at the coil

 

Did you check the voltage both in the run position and the start position? 6 volts won't cut it for either. If you are running a ballast resistor I would check that now, and if you don't have one then trace the coil positive wire back to find where you loose your 12 volts.

Popping thru the carb is almost always something to do with timing. Did you pull the distributor during the engine swap? Are you running points or an upgraded ignition system and if so what kind?

 

I just got some interesting news from my brother. He said after I put the motor in and left he started it and it ran perfectly. I asked him what he did to make it do this and he said all he did was pull off the valve covers to paint them and it wouldn't start when he put them back on the next morning. I'm irritated to say the least. Worst part is he said he drove it around the yard and the only issue was the brakes. does anybody have any thoughts on what could be the issue now?

 

i just watched the video again too and that wasnt a pop from the carb. it was the exhaust. as of now im running headers and about two feet of exhaust pipe on each side so thats whats popping

 

If it's popping from the exhaust I'd say that you have a plug wire or wires crossed. I had the same backfiring issue with my little bro's 79 (it would run, but backfired like an SOB!). It ended up being the #6 and #8 plug wires were switched. As soon as I switched the wires back it never did it again even with open headers and no pipe. After watching your vid it sounded almost exactly like what yours is doing when we'd start it. Trace your plug wires to the cap and make doubly sure you have the firing order correct. It's likely your brother removed some wires to pull the valve covers and didn't get them back in the right place.

 

im more than positive it isnt a crossed wire though unless my distributor cap is marked wrong. but then again i did put the wires on right after the motor went in and according to my brother it ran great. and i did that with the mark on my cap. im just baffled at all of this. its turning into a depressing project