Driver side floor pan
#1
Driver side floor pan
Anyone done any floor pan repairs? I haven't seen any exact fit repair panels (big surprise there) for these trucks, just wondering what some have come up with for repairs. I have access to a mig welder so I have a feeling I may end up getting some sheet metal and just cutting out a panel and welding it in.
#2
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#6
Doesn't appear to, at least not on the outside. I changed the transmission last week and tool a look at it while I was under there. The bad spot is about 6" wide, and about the same tall. And it's not in a curve or any kind of complex shape, so I'm kinda lucky there. I guess to know for sure I'll be pulling the carpet up.
#7
I used the JC Whitney pans and was happy. I trimmed it and screwed it in for a fast fix. They were real strong but a little off.I just found this place, Classic 2 Current Fabrication, and they have a real good selection of body parts. What I was really interested in were the back lower pieces between the door sill and the seat frame. I replaced mine with some tin from the hardware store. I wish I had found these first. http://c2cfabrication.com/store/inde...sort=4a&page=2
Last edited by SixGun; 10-13-2011 at 02:08 AM.
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#8
I used the JC Whitney pans and was happy. I trimmed it and screwed it in for a fast fix. They were real strong but a little off.I just found this place, Classic 2 Current Fabrication, and they have a real good selection of body parts. What I was really interested in were the back lower pieces between the door sill and the seat frame. I replaced mine with some tin from the hardware store. I wish I had found these first. http://c2cfabrication.com/store/inde...sort=4a&page=2
#9
Well, when I peeled the carpet back, it was a little worse than I expected. The carpet pad was holding moisture in between it and the floor pan, so the outside didn't look very bad, but the inside was pretty rusty. Unfortunately I'm on a near 0 budget and it's my driver, so I was forced to take the budget way out and fiberglass it. The crack was L-shaped, about 6 inches wide behind the pedals, and about 6 inches long where the trans tunnel meets the floor. The tunnel part wasn't completely rusted through, but on the verge.
So, I knocked out all the loose rust, glassed 3 layers on the inside, and 2 on the outside. Primed outer and inner, painted outer and inner (2 coats), and picked up a couple cans of undercoat. 1 coat inside, 2 coats outside. If I get a year out of it, I'll be happy because by then I'll be able to afford to fix it right. But honestly, it's hard as a rock right now, and I encapsulated the affected area with alot of material, so hopefully I'm good to go for a while. BTW undercoat is on sale at Advance, reg $5.49 per can, now 2 for $7.
So, I knocked out all the loose rust, glassed 3 layers on the inside, and 2 on the outside. Primed outer and inner, painted outer and inner (2 coats), and picked up a couple cans of undercoat. 1 coat inside, 2 coats outside. If I get a year out of it, I'll be happy because by then I'll be able to afford to fix it right. But honestly, it's hard as a rock right now, and I encapsulated the affected area with alot of material, so hopefully I'm good to go for a while. BTW undercoat is on sale at Advance, reg $5.49 per can, now 2 for $7.
#10
I bought my driver side replacement floor pan from Raybucks. Check out there website Raybuck.com they have lots of stuff for our trucks, I paid $41 for mine and I welded it in. But make sure your cab crossmember is in good condition too its the one that runs from front to back, both sides will have it I had to fab a new one, mine was rotten!. Im also doing a full resto I had the cab off the frame and up on its backside so the floor was facing out. Good luck