I have a 1982 Dodge Ram D350. I replaced the Carter TQ with an Edelbrock 1406. The Oil Pressure idiot light does not light up when the key turns to the "On" position, unless the engine is warm.

When installing the 1406, I connected the 1406's electric choke to the former "bowl vent" electrical connection which runs from the Oil Pressure Switch. The TQ's choke control still connects to the Oil Pressure Switch.


I capped off the choke control wire that previously went from the TQ's electric choke to the choke control switch. I did not disconnect the second choke control switch wire that goes to the Oil Pressure Switch.

Problem. Currently, the Oil Pressure Light does not come on when I turn the ignition, if the engine is cold. It does light up if the engine has warmed up when the ignition key is turned.

1. Is there a relationship with the oil pressure light not lighting up when the key is turned and the way I hooked up the Edelbrock 1406 carbeurator?

2. Should I disconnect the original choke control switch?

3. What should I do to the wire that runs from the oil pressure switch and the choke control switch?

Thanks!

 

i would say if everything worked correctly before the carb swap and it started doing this after you installed the new carb then something must have been hooked up incorrectly. i wired the electric choke on my carb straight from the fuse panel. i thought you were thinking about swapping the idiot light for the gauge?

 

Thanks for the response. I am still thinking of switching to gauges, but want to get everything working correctly first.

I do not recall when the oil pressure light stopped working properly, and therefore do not know if the carb install caused the oil pressure light problem. I have only had the truck since October, I thought all the idiot lights worked then. Soon after purchasing the truck in October I did the carb swap.

I still have the problem with the temperature idiot light not coming on at all during the start up. Following the service manual tests, it seems the bulb, the wire and the voltage limiter do work. I replaced the temperature sensor, but there is no improvement. I might buy another sensor. Seems there are some out there for idiot lights and others out there for gauges, I thought I got one for the idiot light.

And...the ammeter doesn't move at all for its tests, so I think there are some issues there.

The fuel gauge works.

 

the temp gauge light should not come on when you turn your key on because your engine is not overheating when you turn the key on. you do usually have no oil pressure when you first turn your key on which is why the oil light comes on. the sensors are what limit the ground connection to the lights or gauges which make them move or light up. the higher the temp or higher the pressure the less resistance there is between the gauge or light and ground.

might have to turn headlights and blower motor on to get it to the amp meter to move.

 

Crazzywolfie,

I am trying to learn and understand as much as possible about my truck, so bear with me as I ask questions.

I thought the temperature warning light does light up when the key is turned to the "on" position. I thought all of the idiot lights did. If they don't, how do you know if they will work when there is a problem?

On page 8-92 of my 1982 service manual it has a troubleshooting chart that says when the temperature light does not come on it is either a burned out bulb, faulty wire or faulty sending unit. The bulb and wire passed the tests described in the manual.

Turning on the lights and blower still don't budge the ammeter. The connections at the firewall look okay.

Currently, I am taking an adult education auto electronics course that should help me solve these problems and provide me a better understanding of how things work.

Thanks again Crazziewolfie!

 

on both of my dodges i have never seen the temp light come one when i first turn the key on. just the oil and seat belt light. you never know if a light works or not. you just have to trust that it does or you can test the circuit just like you did.

maybe the amp gauge has been bypassed or something. the headlights and blower motor should be enough draw to make it move unless someone did some rewiring like i would like to do.

 

Thanks! Back to the Carb...did you remove the choke control switch when you installed your new carb?

 

i did not remove it but i did not use it. i just ran my own wire from the electric choke to the empty ignition switch power spot in the fuse panel.

 

Thanks! I will take a look at the available slots.

 

To close the loop on this project, I re-wired the Edelbrock's electric choke directly to the "accessory" fuse after disconnecting it from the old choke 12 volt wire, which was coming off the oil sensor behind the carburetor. The accessory fuse is 3 amp so I don't see the need to put an additional fuze in the line. It seems that the choke was taking too much power from the oil pressure sensor and keeping the oil pressure light from lighting up when turning the key. It all works now (except the amp meter...next project.) Thanks for the help!