so i wanted a stock looking location for my tach...not on the dash..hangin from it...or in the side of the window...i wanted something that everyone else didnt do...so i did some cuttin

this is a slimline tach too

white face gauges soon(my temp gauge didnt work)



took out the green color bulb covers to match tach lighting

 

wow, cool idea man. it looks wayyy better than that green lol

 

Nice job. What did you do with your AMP Meter and Temperature Gauge?

 

temp didnt work an amp meter dont suit me any

 

Since you are doing your gauges you might find this interesting if you haven't seen it. I would get rid of the idiot AMP gauge altogether and use a volt meter instead so you know what is going on.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml

 

so do you plan on getting the white gauge decals for the rest of the gauges so that it will all match? i wouldn't mind a having a voltage gauge but i think i need to find another set of gauges with the voltage gauge. i used the gauge cluster out of my 91 in my 81 for a week but i hated how the speedo started at 20km/h. i was also not sure how to get the gas gauge to work since the resistance required is different.

 

yep i plan on putting the white gauges in to match

 

Seal, have you done this wiring system upgrade? After looking at the new diagram (diagram B), I don't see a reason to even bother with the red wire that splices where the amp gauge used to be and runs through the firewall to splice into the black wire on the other side of the amp gauge. I wonder why they don't recommend just disconnecting this red wire, capping off the black wire where the amp gauge used to be and call it a day? It'd save a few steps, unless I'm reading it wrong.

 

BTW, that's a 5" tach, right? I'm going to do the same thing and put a water temp and volt gauge in a custom mount in the little cubby above the radio, or on an a-pillar pod.

 

No. All of my gauges are stock and work fine. If my amp gauge ever fails I will go to a voltage gauge. The splices give you two existing wires to carry the current (to feed the fuse box, ignition switch, and the lights) with less resistance and therefore less heat and better reliability.