Ok, so it sounds like that Skip White outfit with their cheap HEI distributors is the way to go if I want to leave the computer box sitting in the corner of my garage. Sounds simple enough. So much for starting it tomorrow.

Thanks for the help!

Or, on second thought, I could put the box back in, and keep on truckin'!

 

Well, I put the old computer back in, hooked up the vacuum line it has going to it, and started the engine with the old distributor. It appears something is wrong, as when I have the timing light on, I can't even see the hash mark on the balancer unless I turn the timing **** up to about 35 on the timing light. Also, once it's there at 35 on the light, when I rev the engine, the hash doesn't advance. I'm thinking something isn't hooked up right, and it might be something with the emission stuff I trashed when I installed the new engine.

I'm leaning toward getting the HEI distributor from White Performance, but getting someone on the phone to answer a simple question is proving to be impossible.

 

you should probably be disconnecting the vacuum line that goes to the computer when trying to set the timing. it could be messing with the timing.

 

You might want to verify if that HEI distributor will work for your application. This is a quote from Skip White's web site. "this distributor should work in all "Y" block Dodge, Chrysler and Plymouth vehicles that are not, "lean burn, throttle body injection, or computer controlled"."

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/...px?Item=6713-R

 

i think the only reason they say that is because the lean burn system was built for cars in places like California where emissions laws are pretty tight. i have read of lot of people using one to replace there lean burn system and it has worked fine. it pretty much tells you you can get rid of the 4pin ignition module and ballast resister if you where to use it so what would be the difference? it is pretty much a self contained system that you just have to hook up a coil and add power and you are good to go.

 

"what would be the difference" I don't know that there is a difference. I don't know anything about the unit but what they say. All I said was that I would verify the application due to a stated exception being in play here. I believe it is prudent to verify the application on everything I buy if there is any question.

 

You're right, Seal, and I did see that. I called Skip White probably 8-9 different times, and apparently there's only one guy (Chris) who knows about these units, and he's always in the warehouse, on the phone, or nobody answers. If nobody answers, you can leave a message, but don't expect a call back. I was trying to talk to him to verify this would work, but the more I tired to get a hold of him, the more frustrated I"d get, and I got to thinking the same thing as Wofie was saying. It's a self contained unit that totally replaces the lean burn computer, so it shouldn't be a problem. I'm hoping they mean that it just won't plug into the factory wiring harness, which would be no big deal. The MSD units that look exactly the same don't say there's any issues with applications on our engines, so this should be (I assume) the same.

Anyhow, I gave up trying to get in touch of this mysterious "Chris" person, and just ordered one with their 12v coil. It should be in today, and I expect to put it right in tonight after work. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Now I need to figure out this transmission bracket and carb setup. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-and-carb.html

 

some over on dodge talk just installed one of those distributors in there truck that at one point had lean burn system and from the sounds of it he is really impressed.
might want to read post 58 & 61
http://bit.ly/zLQFSd
http://bit.ly/xwssY9

 

No need to wonder. I got it all hooked up and after some playing with it, and figuring out exactly where the number 1 cylinder contact was under the cap since there's no markings, and no cut outs for the lock down bracket to limit the rotation of the distributor while adjusting the timing. Anyhow, after a few flames out of the carb, and a good shock from a plug wire that popped off of the cap, it fired up and held the timing well. 10 degrees BTDC, and around 35 degrees when revved.

HOWEVER, when I'd have it revved up to check the total timing everything would be fine, but when I let go of the throttle to let it go back to idle, I don't think the timing is coming back to 10 fast enough, and the engine will die, and I'll get a nice flame from the secondary venturies. Not sure exactly what the deal is, as I only had it running for a short time since it's starting to get late in the day, and the truck has open headers. My initial guess is a combination of an incorrectly sized power valve, and possibly a vacuum leak.

 

did you have the vacuum advance hooked up when setting the timing? if so that could be part of the problem. you are suppose to disconnect it when setting the timing.