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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 11:27 PM
  #21  
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Well you won't know what your static compression ratio is until you know what size your combustion chamber is. That is why I asked for the piston specs.

As far as aluminum heads; in theory you would want to up the static compression ratio to compensate for the aluminum heads inability to retain heat in the combustion chamber. You really don't need them for your application but you could benefit from a good set of iron heads provided you pick the correct combustion chamber size.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 03:31 AM
  #22  
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J heads are the old "performance" heads from Chrysler. Can't recall which years but they were the ones to have if you wanted serious bolt on performance back in the days. Sometimes they go by the name W1 too (and the even older X head being the W0). W2 was the first really high flowing head (oval ports) but it has a different port design and geometry so it requires a special intake etc. All of the above are cast iron. The only ones that are available for reasonable money are the J's. Drawback is that they don't have hardened exhaust valve seats (stock).

The 308 is the last 360 head pre Magnum (IIRC 89 - 92). They flow even better than the J's, especially on the exhaust side - some say too good that's why I suggested giving the intake side some attention. Cast iron and super rugged.

In general, a dual plane (what you have stock) is great for low down torque and responsiveness. In return, it can be outflowed making the motor fall on its face. It's basically, as the name would suggest, a 2 plane (or 2 side) design with the each plane/side feeding 4 cylinders each.
A single plane lets the whole intake feed all 8 cylinders. It has a larger (double by design) plenum volume which is good for making high rpm hp.

Mopar M1 intakes are available in dual or single. The dual rpm band is from 0 to 6000, single is from about 2500 up to I don't know. This varies from intake to intake and brand to brand but take it as a general guide.

For a normal street smallblock in a heavy car with a stock converter a dual is better. But you're going to have lots of cubes and lots of stroke - giving you lots of torque by design - so you can focus more on making hp on top. But you'll need a looser converter to back it up.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 11:12 AM
  #23  
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The Edelbrock Air Gap intake manifold is a good one. It is a dual plane design. It has been proven that it gives good torque down low and power up top.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 05:14 PM
  #24  
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So, i have all my ducks in a row, now to talk transmission and transfer case. I have a 727 tranny and a 208 tcase. What will i have to do to both to get them to take this extra power, i was thinking heavy duty bands and a shift kit for the transmission, and for the tcase i was gunna find a gear driven one instead of the chain. What model of tcase should i look for? Napa sells new ones i just need to get a number.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 05:59 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by MikeBigRedDodge
So, i have all my ducks in a row, now to talk transmission and transfer case. I have a 727 tranny and a 208 tcase. What will i have to do to both to get them to take this extra power, i was thinking heavy duty bands and a shift kit for the transmission, and for the tcase i was gunna find a gear driven one instead of the chain. What model of tcase should i look for? Napa sells new ones i just need to get a number.

You still haven't said what heads your using and piston spec's to determine your compression ratio. What cam\lifters will you be using?

As for for the transfer case an NP205 would be the best short of an Atlas.

For the 727 trans Hughes Performance makes excellent kits with Red Alto clutches and steels as well as offer very good torque converters.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 06:41 PM
  #26  
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http://m.summitracing.com/parts/uem-kb107-030 these are the pistons
 
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 06:45 PM
  #27  
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This is the crank.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/esp-436040006123
 
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 10:26 PM
  #28  
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Ok well the question is what heads are you going to be using. Without knowing the size of the combustion chamber you could end with with VERY high compression which would require racing fuel if your not careful. Those pistons with a 63 cc chamber will be around 13.5 to 1

In addition, why spend the extra money on a forged crank but then only get Hypereutectic pistons instead of forged? On top of that those are not the correct pistons for a stroker...
The pistons you selected are for a stocke 3.58 stroke and not a 4" stroke...

Why not select a complete Scat stroker kit that is already balanced instead of piecing one together?
 
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 11:00 PM
  #29  
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So can you give me a number for a Kit? Also that was stupidity on my part with the piston part number, that's the wrong one, I have forged Stroker pistons and h beam rods, all for a Stroker. I have all the numbers written down, that's the right crank but wrong piston number, my bad. That was pre-stroke pistons. Also has anyone run a mix of avgas and unleaded before? I have a five gallon barrel I got for free. Could I use a mix in my truck without wrecking something?
 
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 11:21 PM
  #30  
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Personally I would get a kit from Hughes since I prefer the Icon pistons but from Summit:
(DEPENDING ON YOUR CYLINDER HEADS)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...iew/make/dodge
or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...iew/make/dodge
 
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