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heater motor troubleshoot.

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  #11  
Old 02-12-2013, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by SixGun
My heater was working fine one winter and then the next winter the fan speed switch wasn't working. I had unplugged the fan and used jumpers to the battery and it worked. I took out the switch for the fan speed and it looked good. I followed the wires from the fan speed control back to the heater controls by removing the stereo and there it was. The plug had slipped back some when messing with the stereo over the summer. That plug is pretty loose on mine so it slipped off easily.

So what exactly is not working on yours? Mine had heat while driving but no fan control. Some common problems are trash in the heater box blocking air flow and corroded diverter valve for the coolant going to the heater box.

Good luck with it. It's too freakin' cold to go without a heater right now.
Yeah Six for sure it's COLD! Mine is all in the blower motor not coming on with the switch, there IS warm air coming out but not under force of the blower motor. I checked the electrical feed to the motor last night with my VOm and nada, only less than half a volt. So it has to be the switch or fuseable link, but do I have a fuseable link on my 1991 and if so, where the fung ho is it>? Oh, and I can hear the flappers working right when I switch modes....but no forced air from the blower...
 
  #12  
Old 02-12-2013, 10:57 AM
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fusible links would be on he drivers side fender. you should be looking for the orange one connected to a pink wire. if there is no power at the heater fuse with the key in the run position then then the fusible link is most likely gone bad.
 
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by crazzywolfie
fusible links would be on he drivers side fender. you should be looking for the orange one connected to a pink wire. if there is no power at the heater fuse with the key in the run position then then the fusible link is most likely gone bad.
Ill have to check the fuse power but think there is power there since it clicks and sparks a tiny bit when I take it out then put it back in.
 
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:07 PM
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probably shouldn't click or spark unless the key is in the run position and even then you must have the heat on. i would still test for power. this will help you figure out where your problem is. could even use a test light. if there is power at the fuse then you may have to tear apart the dash and check for power at the switch. from the fuse the power go to the switch.
 
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:11 PM
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You mentioned working on the stereo, did you check for the plug to the back of the heater controls from the fan switch. You will have to remove the dash to check it unfortunately but sounds like you might have to anyways. Mine too had heat but no fan to blow it. So basically, the only time I would feel it was while driving like a vent with no fan on. Did you hook up a couple of jumper wires to the battery from the blower motor to make sure it works? Your problem sure sounds like mine.
 
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SixGun
You mentioned working on the stereo, did you check for the plug to the back of the heater controls from the fan switch. You will have to remove the dash to check it unfortunately but sounds like you might have to anyways. Mine too had heat but no fan to blow it. So basically, the only time I would feel it was while driving like a vent with no fan on. Did you hook up a couple of jumper wires to the battery from the blower motor to make sure it works? Your problem sure sounds like mine.
I found a new switch at NAPA for 11 dollars so bought it. I can get access to the switch (kinda) from the hole the stereo came out of so am going to remove the sleeve for the stereo, take the plug off the switch and plug the new one in to trouble shoot it. If it works, I MIGHT be able to get the old switch out and new one in from there since it is right above the stereo hole on my truck. Shoot, with the sleeve in I can get my hand on the plug and back of the switch. With it out I might be able to swap it out. I am almost finished with the new parking brake cable I was wrestling with yesterday till it got too dark and cold to work on it anymore....
 
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:26 PM
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you know the switch is held in with 2 screws? 1 on top and 1 on the bottom. i think you really have no choice but to remove the dash. its not like it is that hard. i can do it in about 1 minute. i just had my dash out the other day to install a voltage gauge and clean up some of my wiring.
 
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:57 AM
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I wish mine was that fast. In addition to removing the 200 dash screws, I have to remove the plastic collar on the steering column and pull the gear selector down to 1st with the key in. Also, I mounted a 3 pod gauge set onto the dash that I have to remove.

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  #19  
Old 02-15-2013, 01:08 AM
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i guess that is the problem with mechanical gauges. i can almost leave my 3 pod gauge setup with the dash when i take it out. i also have never moved my gear selector to 1st. never needed to. now i don't know nothing about the plastic collar on the steering column. i don't remember any of my trucks having them or if they did i must have just wiggled over it.
 
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by crazzywolfie
you know the switch is held in with 2 screws? 1 on top and 1 on the bottom. i think you really have no choice but to remove the dash. its not like it is that hard. i can do it in about 1 minute. i just had my dash out the other day to install a voltage gauge and clean up some of my wiring.
Its good to hear it may be that easy. I'll see what it loks like with the radio sleeve out tomorrow after I finish up installing my new parking brake cable.
 


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