Ok, so here is where it stands. I tried the new switch and it made no difference. I tested power at the fuse, it has it. I tested power at the feed for the motor and when connected, it has nothing, unconnected from the motor it BARELY lights the test light, and the test light lights BRIGHT when connected to the battery.

If I test the motor from a battery it spins FAST.


So is all it can be is the resistor? Where is it on my truck, it is NOT under the dash where I can see it anywhere and there is a black block bolted to the side of the motor housing under the hood right behind the hood hinge where it is a pain to get to. I am hoping it is not that part, but that thing has 5 wires going into it three off one plug, two off of another I think and one set goes into the top AC hose...weird...

 

your truck has a/c? did you make sure one of those buttons was pushed? if the off button is pushed in you will never get the fan to turn on. also the resister should not effect the blower motor on high. you should have air being blown out the vents one way or another unless you got a bad connection somewhere.

 

Yes, wherter I press AC or heat stuff happens like actuators change, and such. When I put the AC on, the truck idles higher but the clutch doesn't engauge on the ac compressor either. I changed out the ac relay but that didn't help. Is there a plug behind the ac heatere switches that may have come loose?

 

well, i double checked and there is no power present at the fuse, but changing out the fuse doesn't help and it isn't blown/
\

 

Eureka! I figured it out! Turns out the PO had run an auxilliary wire to feed the hot feed that went to the fuse for the heater blower. The feed came from a red wire tacked to the battery hot terminal. I was under the hood and was wondering why the fuse had been hot, but had gone null after a bunch of checking and why when the hot was evident at the fuse, it would not light the test bright at all. I checked the hot feed at the fuse and it was nulled again. So, I swapped it with the one for the three fuses for the next row and the blower came right on! I traced the hot feed for the heater blower and it was that one the guy had put in which was corroded. I shortened it about an inch and a half, and reset it on the terminal and it fixed everything!

 

if you are getting no power at the fuse then i would guess you have a bad fusible link which is a common problem and very simple to fix. you should be looking for a orange fusible link connected to a pink wire on the drivers side fender.

sounds like the PO had the fusible link go bad and repaired it the crude way. i think if it is wired like i think it is you may want to make sure you hit the off button or it may drain your battery when not in use.

 

Would not the fuseable link effect the entire fuse box? The whole electrical system was fine save for the wire that fed the heater blower circuit.....???

 

no. you got about 4-6 fusible links under the hood that go to different things. 1 for the alternator, 1 for everything on that has constant power, 1 for ignition power, 1 for accessory power and i think there is one on the asd relay circuit. there may be others but those are the ones i remember off the top of my head without looking at a wiring diagram.

 

OK, cool. I didn't know that! BUT, why would it only be run (the aux power feed) to a single hot in the fuse box? All that was effected when this happened was the hot feed for the heater blower which when not hot....made it so the blower wouldn't work nor would the AC clutch come on. Every other hot feed in the fuse box not only was hot, but everything that they fed worked perfectly.

 

I am thinking I need to trace that aux power feed he put in and find out where it goes from the battery......at least to find out how well he did it. It does work, but I want to check it out and maybe fuse it at the battery as well.