Quit selling vehicles.

 

i don't sell vehicles but no point in giving away $50 especially since you wont get any extra money for it.

 

True.
But it's the effort that gets you.

 

Ok cool. Ill defiantly will be doing this in a few weeks

 

No, not in a sense. Anytime you ADD parts to do the same thing it can lead to more complexity. But it technically isn't unreliable. BUT if a relay fails either one I can swap back to stock by bypassing either or both in a matter of a few minutes. I would rather have it engineered that way than be out in the middle of no where and loose my low or high beams.

 

I decided like said I wanted top do mine so I can swap it back to stock in 5 minutes whilst it is raining and at night on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere because all of us know, that is when it'll go bad.


First off I attached the relays to the fender well right next to the battery so my wires would not be miles long. I also wanted the feed line for the 10ga wire to be as short as possible going from the battery to the relays.
Second I wanted to have only the hot for dim and bright going from one side of the truck to the other since that would work and look the cleanest. I used the hot for the dim and bright from the drivers side headlight plug to pull the relay. his also made it a lot cleaner than running a pull hot from the passenger side.

Here is a pic of the feed wires and relays.



This image shows the connection to the drivers side plug,



This is how and where I ran the hot for both dim and bright to the passenger side,



This is the passenger side headlight



And the whole thing taps off of the drivers dies plug except for the passengers side ground. I used a single glass fuse in each feed line that is 30a so they should not blow unless something drastic happens with a short but as you can see, nothing touches anything that is sharp or that moves much at all. All the wiring is top quality copper wire, and all the crimps were top quality crimps. Never use solder in these applications because underhood soldered copper wire connections get brittle.

 

the only thing i could add to make things easier would be to get some real headlight plugs. they are not too expensive. i think they are only about $5 per socket and would make converting to stock a lot quicker if you need. i got ceramic headlight plugs for my trucks.

 

However, none of the plugs I found would take the 10ga wire. Plus, the terminals I used fit very tight and I like being able to see the connection.

 

10 gauge wire is a bit heavier than you need. you could have got away with using 14 gauge with how short of a distance the power had to travel. just by upgrading the ground wire that went to the stock headlights you would have been doing a crap load better. i think i have been using 12 gauge everywhere just because that is what i have.

 

True, but I am going to upgrade my headlights themselves soon with the Hella H4 housings. Although they are expensive at $78.00 each, they have an incredible pattern and reflector that basically doubles the brightness of stock lapms and when after market lamps are used like the 80w low, 100w high like I want to use, the wire being 10ga will help immensely.

I'd love to find new sockets that will take 12ga wire since I want to do my BMW now.